A return to remember

After 312 days on the road, I have finally returned to Toronto.

I had an amazing homecoming. My aunt was due to be pick me up at the airport. She has my keys, so she had to come get me. As we were hugging and jumping up and down, when my friend Stuart sauntered up. Yipee! He works near the airport so just hopped over on the TTC. How sweet!

I was a bit uneasy as I had asked my aunt take me to Swiss Chalet on the way home. Famed for its rotisserie chicken it is not a great place for a vegetarian, which Stuart is. Oh well, he'd manage.

As we were gossiping in the car on the way over, I gave my parents a call. My father was almost coming through the phone he was so overjoyed that his little girl (remember, I turned 40 this year) had returned to Canadian soil unscathed.

We arrived at the chicken shop and I was salivating for my 1/4 dark with fries (I don't even have to look at the menu). The hostess directed us to the back corner where I was surprised again by Manish, Celia and Katheryn jumping up from the table. What an amazing feeling! They had a lovely "Welcome Home" sign and flowers. What a great surprise and warm return.

As we drove home I was checking out the skyline to see if any major transformations had taken place. Everything had a pretty familiar feel to it. When we arrived home, it was great to cross the threshold of my condo and see it all intact. I have been renting it out while I was gone and you can never be sure what goes on. Stuart, Manish and Celia who all live on my floor had been telling me stories over dinner about the recent tenants who apparently felt it was OK to have parties thumping away at 4am, fights in the hallway, and screaming matches. Yikes! Looks like I need to go around and apologize to the floor for any inconveniences.

It is good to be home, but it does feel a bit strange. For one thing, my bed is huge! I haven't had the luxury of a queen size bed much this year. I slept star-fish style to take the best advantage of all the space. Also it feels amazing to rummage around in my own fridge and cupboards, drink water from the tap, and know that I don't have to bring my own toilet paper into the loo. Not everything will be as smooth. There will be many adjustment ahead but I am looking forward to it all.

I want to thank everyone for following my travel blog. It has been fun to share the adventure with you all. Your comments here and on Facebook have been really inspiring and very much appreciated. Stay tuned, I will keep you posted on my journey back into Toronto life. Let's hope it offers up as much fun as the last 10 1/2 months.

Some fun facts (or my own MasterCard ad):
24 countries
56 scuba dives
45 flights
33 trains
15 buses
9 ferries
7 organized tours
3 passports
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Endless amazing memories and a deep yearning to do it again

Red Sea Revival

I have been down to the depths of the Red Sea again this week. I am on another week long liveaboard scuba trip. This time down in the southern part of the sea.

The temperatures both in and out of the water have been lovely and warm. Plus there has been sun everyday. Bliss!!

We have lots of fantastic dives. Beautiful coral, fish and marine life. During tonight's night dive we encountered a stunning eagle ray at least four feet across gliding through the blue. We were also treated to large groups of lion fish out hunting. They were attracted to our torch light. It helps them see their prey.

The other passengers are much more hospitable than the previous group. For one thing, they speak to me. Plus, I have my friend Karen with me. She came down from Edinburgh for this week. The crew are great too, although I have to say the food was a bit better on the last boat.

Highlights include sitting up on the top deck watching the water swirl and crash over reef while covered with a canopy of stars listening to the Muslims on board perform their evening prayers. You can't ask for a better relaxation method. I must tuck this scene away in my mind so I can relive it when I need to remember just how lucky I am.

PS: I went swimming with dolphins today. Amazing!!

St Antonin-du-Var reflections

I am back in the south of France at my aunt Jane's place. How lucky am I that she would have me back for the second time this year. Plus I arrived just in time for her annual curry luncheon - yum! What a lovely group.

We have throughly enjoyed ourselves jaunting off to the nearby village for market day and then off to lunch with some other friends. Today we are lounging around the house enjoying the sunshine and chatting about the mad family we have... (say no more).

I will be off tomorrow for a night in Gatwick before diving back into the Red Sea for a week's liveaboard scuba vacation. Whoo hoo - can't wait to get back under the water.

I shall miss Jane and her lovely place. It always offers me such a quiet opportunity for reflection which is just what I need as this great adventure starts to wind down . Merci and au revoir St Antonin-du-Var.

Florence in a cup of gelato

I could write about the obscene quantity and quality of artworks at the Uffizi, or Michelangelo's jaw dropping David sculpture. But really, my time in Florence is best summed up with this reflection;

Sitting in a square overlooked by a Gothic church with the November sun warming my face while I enjoy the sweet salty combination of banana and pistachio gelato.

Nothing is rushed and nothing is taken too seriously. It is just simply delicious in everyway.

Sauntering around Siena

I spent the day in Siena today. It was a stunning drive from Florence; rolling hills, fortressed towns, grape wines turning colour.

Siena is a quaint town wrapped with old city walls and gates still intact. It has its share of squares and churches.

Il Campo is the main square where they run horse races in the summer. I can only imagine what it is like with the thundering hooves racing around. It would be deafening, but totally exhilarating.

The Duomo is equally impressive. It is in gothic style (which is not the top of my list - too ornate). The real highlight is at your feet. The floor is covered with mosaic masterpieces. I wasn't able to see the full extent of the artwork, as it is only fully uncovered for two weeks in August. My friends, Stuart and Manish saw it several years ago. What was available was still magnificent in detail and colour.

The Piazza Salimbeni was quite comical. One side there are 29 funny faces staring down at you and in the middle of the square is a huge bronze statue of a monk with a condemning stare.

I had my first gelato in Siena (I know, I have been in Italy over a week, and this was my first gelato), but it has been rather chilly. My bacio cup was divine and I will be sure to have a few more tastes before I go. Yum!

I have long loved Tuscany. My love affair has only deepened today with my adventure to Siena. I could see myself living here quite easily. This is truly a slice of heaven.

View of Siena valley from behind Il Campo

Roma revisited

I had not been to Rome in over 15 years. I didn't expect much to be different, after all 15 years is nothing compared to the number of centuries it has been around.

I was excited to see some of my old favourites. The Trevi fountain is at the top of the list. My affinity to water makes this impressive piazza size fountain a must see. It didn't disappoint. Even with a few tour groups there, it is had a quiet elegance to it. Being raised on water sports I have always known that the sea can be both tranquil and fierce. That is represented in the two sides of the fountain, with a proud Neptune in the middle ruling over his aquatic kingdom.

Trevi Fountain, Rome

Next was the Spanish steps. Again a long time favourite for its views of the city and sweeping staircase up to the French church. I like the small fountain of a sinking boat at the bottom of the staircase.

I also made the pilgrimage to the Colosseum. I still have now been inside. I didn't feel like waiting the two hours to a buy a ticket in. There is so much to see from outside, that the inside will have to continue to wait.

Some new destinations included Capitoline Hill. The Musei Capitolini is a treasure trove of sculptures, which I think has become my favourite art form. There was also a fascinating Michelangelo exhibit on showcasing some of his architectural work around Rome.

Bronze sculpture in Musei Capitolini

Piazza Navona and its three fountains was also a first for me. I covered a surprising number of fountains in Rome. They love to show off their aquatic creations. Works for me. I was most impressed with the Fountana del Nettuno in the north end of the plaza. The middle piece, Fountana dei Quattro Fiumi, is meant to be the showcase, but not so much for me.

I also stumbled across Campo de Fiori and the open air produce market within. The Italians love their food. I watched a older woman make her way through three or four stalls, poking at fruit, vegetables and breads along the way. She has an endless stream of commentary going (which I could not even come close to understanding), but it seemed to entertain the stall owners. I imagined her making comments and comparisons about the goods and detailing out how she was going to use them in her evening meal. Mamma mia, she was fun!

Overall, I have really enjoyed returning to Rome. It lived up to my past impressions and provided a peek at some new corners of the city. I will be back, I am sure. Rome, like the rest of Italy, I think should be experienced several times in one's life. It has so much to reveal to its visitors.

Capri: soggy to sauced

I had been warned to not expect much from Capri. It is meant to be an island tourist trap with pretty views but very little realistic charm. Nevertheless, I decided to make the journey and see for myself.

On the ferry ride over the heavens open, it poured with rain and we were suddenly dealing with 8-12ft swells. It is amazing how quickly the sea can turn. We made it into port soggy and cold. I still wanted to make the most of it and resisted the urge to stowaway onboard for a quick ride back to the mainland.

I took the funicular up to Capritown only. Most of the stores and restaurants were closed up for the season so there was very little refuge from the down pour. I managed to tuck into a small coffee shop. Again I was scoffed at for my cappuccino request, but being chilled to the bone, I didn't take it to heart. As sipped slowed at my coffee hoping that I wouldn't be put out by the owner as more and more travelers found their way into this dry oasis. I needn't have worried as the owner came through the place with a free flowing bottle of Lemoncello for all her patrons. Apparently we had given her one of the best days in takings in recent weeks, and she was not interested in letting her cash cow slip away. She managed to score several more orders of coffee, lunch dishes and pastries. She was even scooping out tons of gelato, although she scoffed at those wanting cold food as well.

As I finally extracted myself from the coffee shop melee, the clouds were parting. The sun started to beat down as if it were a mid summer's day. By the time I had made my way around several of the side streets, I was striping off my many layers and wondering why I had not brought my sunscreen.

In the end, my trip to Capri delightful. It was full of character and generosity; two things I have found in abundance so far in this region of Italy.

More Roman ruins

Despite my previous declarations that I was done with Roman ruins, cathedrals and museums, I couldn't very well come all this way and skip out on Pompeii. I even added the Herculaneum to the list. The Herculaneum was more recently uncovered in the town of Ercalano. Though a much smaller site, the preservation is better than Pompeii. This is because the town was engulfed in 16 metres of mud from Vesuvius' eruption rather than the burning ash that rained down on and entombed Pompeii.

My hotel manager had sent me out with highlighted maps, site guide books, and strict instructions to pick up a sandwich at the Sorrento market before heading off. His insistence paid off as the only food on offer at the sites was hideously overpriced and unappealing. Well done Ando!

I buzzed through Herculaneum quickly with barely enough time to catch my breath. I wanted to see it, but Pompeii was where I wanted to spend the bulk of my time. It was good and gave me a good sense of how the buildings were laid out in those times (AD79).

Pompeii was breathtaking. I found myself saying "Wow" several times as I would come around a corner into a grand courtyard, look down on an enormous amphitheatre or see mosaic floor tiles still intact with intricate designs. It helped that it was a beautiful sunny day, and that there were not hordes of people around. It really gave you time to take everything in and imagine what life would have been like back in those times.

It is astonishing that people still live in this area. Mt. Vesuivus is still an active volcano with more than 30 eruptions since its epic explosion in AD79. The Italian government has tried everything to clear the area, including paying people. Apparently, the locals don't believe the world scientists who have stated that Vesuivus is well overdue for another big eruption. I wouldn't be too eager to move away from this enchanting area either, but having molten lava percolating beneath me everyday is also not appealing.

I was glad to have spent the day crawling over some more ancient ruins. Perhaps this will be it for awhile, but then again there is still Rome to come.

The Amalfi coast

I spent the day traveling the Amalfi coast. It is considered one of the best coastal drives in the world - they ain't lying! I would have loved to have done it in a convertible with the top down, or even on the back of a motor bike, but the bus was the only thing my budget would allow. In fact, being elevated a bit off the pavement gave the twists, turns and magnificent cliff ledges more drama. It is breathtaking.

I made a brief stop in Positano. My hotel manager had supplied me with a map of the area and instructions on where the best look outs were. It was suggested that a quick hour was all that was needed in Positano. This gave me enough of a view of the colourful houses that seemingly float off the side of the cliffs. I also made it down to the black sand beach but it was too cold to take a dip. I guess I am now a Mediterranean snob.

The real treasure was Ravello. A cute pedestrian town perched high on the hill. The Villa Cimbrone is well worth the hike up to. It has the Terrace of Infinite with stunning views up and down the coast. It gives one pause to appreciate life. It certainly beats my view on Lake Ontario. I was also finally able to take a seat in an Italian piazza and enjoy a cappuccino. However, I had to endure the rolling of eyes from the cafe owner, as Italians don't drink milky coffee after breakfast. I begged forgiveness and he frothed the milk.

Amalfi itself is probably better seen in the height of summer where a stroll along the waterfront is a must. With chilly temperatures rolling in I gave the striped Duomo a quick glance, walked the shopping streets for some visual stimulus (the prices are sky high), watched the sunset beyond the cliffs and then headed back to Sorrento via the windy coastal road. Which in the pitch black was even more gut wrenching at times.

I arrived back in Sorrento with a healthy appetite and a great restaurant recommendation. The perfect combo to end out a lovely day.

The Palaces of Potsdam

Potsdam is a suburb of Berlin that can be accessed within 45 minutes of the city centre (thanks to the amazing transport system again). However, back in the days of Prussia kings and queens, it was far enough away to be the ideal location for summer retreats.

This delightful town boasts several grand palaces that circle the enormous Park Sanssouci. I spent the day wondering amongst the ancient grandeur.

The park provided me with a complete autumn experience. The leaves were all in full colour and collecting in huge piles. There was a nip in the air and animals scurrying to prepare for winter. I love autumn back home so was glad to have a hint of it here.

Fall in Potsdam

With rosy cheeks I stroll down paths once frequented by royalty. The park is filled with high hedges, mature trees and hidden walkways. Tucked in everywhere are hundreds of statutes that capture a long ago lifestyle. Women playing musical instruments or tending to flowering urns, young warriors flexing their muscles or showing off their hunting trophies to impress said women. I guess some things have not changed in time.

The palaces themselves are in several states of repair or disrepair. The city is desperately trying to raise awareness to fund the incredibly restoration work that needs to be done. They have a long way to go, but their efforts have maintained this opulent area rather well so far. I have not seen so many intact statues in one place.

The other sites of Potsdam also speak to its history of being a destination for the rich leisure set. There is none of the commercial work-a-day life of Berlin here. Nor are there signs of Germany´s wartime past.

I wrapped up my day with a hot chocolate overlooking the Havel river. It was a perfect end to a pleasant fall day in Potsdam!

Neues Palace, Sanssouci Park, Potsdam

Burrrr-lin

I love Berlin! Despite the chilly temperatures and drizzly days this place can capture your heart. I am currently wearing 6 layers of clothes and am still dying. What I am going to do when I am faced with the minus temperatures. Ugh!

Friends and family told me Berlin was a great place, but I was still overwhelmed by how captivating it is. It helps that I am staying in a great quiet little pension just off one of the main streets and that I bought a multi-day transit pass so I get zip around the vast city at will. The transportation system here rocks; trains, subways, buses and trams. Overall the city is clean, inviting, and offers plenty to do.

I have traipsed through several museums. The Berlinische Gallerie was a great example of how Germans love their art. It was a lovely look at modern art via photography, impressionist paintings, graphical design and installations. I was also taken by the Jewish museum. If for not other reason than it shows the importance of the Jewish people to Germany´s rich history. It covers well beyond the atrocities of WWII. And finally there was the outdoor East-side Gallery. Local and International artists use one of the last remaining sections of wall as a canvas to showcase their work. There are highly detailed pieces with strong political views as well as basic statements asking the audience to simply appreciate life´s little wonders. What a great way to repurpose the past.

Outdoors East-side Gallery, Berlin

Berlin is also a green paradise. There are green spaces in every neighbourhood. The city centre surrounds an enormous park, Tiergarten. It acts as a refuge for the city dwellers and manages to create a climate bubble to keep the harshest temperature during the summer and winter at bay.

Berlin will be celebrating 20 years of being a wall free city next month. There are lots of activities underway to prepare for the anniversary of that historic event. I can recall seeing the news reports all those years ago. People dancing in the streets and swinging pick axes at the cement barriers. Both sides desperate to release the other. It is remarkable how important that event was on Europe´s preceding history, but yet it does not define this city today. Like so many other places I have visited this year, the place has moved on. Berliners acknowledge the past, but value the future more.

Brandenburg Gate, Berlin

It is a great lesson for me to remember that not matter how impacting an event can be in my life, ultimately the rough edges will smooth over and the experience will give way to other moments. Hopefully the experience leaves enough residue that my future experiences have a richer tone. But the truth is, nothing lasts forever.

Athens is in the ruins

Typical of this year, I had not done much research before arriving in Athens. I had realized beforehand that the time of year wasn´t conducive to island hoping and the weather report back up that theory. So I dedicated myself to the ancient ruins, museums and local flavours.

Athens is a series of producthoods. Each area of the city is specialized by what the stores sell. There is the park of a million carpets (reminiscent of Turkey and Morocco), back alleys of bookstores, hubs of flower stalls, meat markets and more. The neighbourhood I choose to stay in did dual duty: prostitution and cocaine. Nice combo. I knew before I got there that both were rife in the downtown core, but was still taken aback by it. The street walkers were of little concern. I wasn´t of interest to them, unless I lingered too long looking at my map. Then the dirty stares came flying. Note to self: don´t stand on the actual corner when reviewing which way to go!

The police presence came and went without doing much to stem the tide of drugged out coke heads. One morning I watch two guys casually draw up two lines of cocaine on the saddle of a motorbike in front of my hotel. They finished off just as a cruiser swung past.

Despite the "local colour", I did enjoy my time in Athens. The ancient ruins were impressive. Not so much in their scale or abundance, but in the way they define this quite modern city. Atheans take a lot of pride in their unique historical perspective. Unlike many places I have visited the pride doesn´t have an arrogance to it.

I am also constantly amazed at how these tremendous sites are open so completely to the public. There is little more than a rope between the public and centuries old relics. However there were the occasional shrill whistle blows heard. These were from guards and researches working the ruins to stop visitors from reaching over the barriers to nip a sample of history. Can you believe it? Some people actually think it is acceptable to walk off with a bit of the Parthenon!

Parthenon, Athens

One other highlight was the changing of the guard in front of parliament. I had been told to not miss it by a few previous travelers. It is a good thing that Greece is not likely to go war anytime soon. These guys are hilarious. They have a fantastic ´funny walk´ to rival Monty Python and the giant pom poms on their shoes do nothing to instill a sense of furiousness.

Changing of the guards

The National Archaeological Museum was surprising good as well. There were lots of statues and an excellent exhibit on "Women and Worship: Ancient Goddesses" exhibit. I speed through the vase and pottery section. I still can´t get excited about clay pots. It must be linked to my lack of interest in cooking.

Athens was a good stop along the way, no regrets. But I can probably bypass it next time and head straight for the islands!

PS: I saw my first christmas display in a store window today. Ahhh! Time is flying by so quickly.

Istanbul baby!

Wrapped up my Turkey tour in Istanbul and the hung out for four days with my friend Kyoko. She flew in from London for a short break.

We hit the main sights, haggled our way around the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market and even picked up some great Mavi jeans. The highlight, however, was the last night...

We'd been out all day and decided to stay local for something to eat for dinner. The night before as we dodged through the guantlet of restaurants veying for our business. We had used the excuse that we were meeting friends somewhere else to get away from the annoying "see my restaurant", "my turn to show you menu", and such. The kicker was that we actually ran into people I knew. Two of my tour mates were dining at one of the places we blanked. As we stalked off past the restaurant, Rene was madly knocking on the window. She eventually ran out and down the street after us and we ended up joining her and her husband, Jerry for a drink and snack. They raved about the food, so Kyoko and I decided to give it a try the next night. That's where the fun begins.

I had taught Kyoko backgammon the night before, and we were determine to get some more practice in. The problem is that cafes with boards don't generally serve drinks, plus Kyoko was looking for some shisha. Our restuarant jumped into action and brought all the elements to us. This meant that we'd keep drinking their beer. We started to attract attention and pretty soon had some Germans from the next table and locals join us in the fun. We were slamming tiles and rolling the dice like pros. Eventually, the restuarant needed to close, but fear not, one of the locals owned the hostel next door and had a roof top bar. Whoo hoo - let's move the party.

We had Marco and Philip from Germany, Anna from Vancouver, Anthony the local hostel host and a cast of other characters that came and went over the course of the night. The drinks were flowing and the gang was lively. We even managed to paint Philip's nails on his left extremdies. Don't know how he was going to explain that one to his buddies the next day.

Kyoko and I made it home at 5am. Good stories to be told, photos to prove it and a full blown Istanbul hangover for me the next day. All good souvenirs.

Ahhh ... the Med how I love thee

I have dipped into the Mediterranean again, this time from the north. We spent a wonder day and night on a Turkish boat bobbing through the sea.

After leaving the centre of the country we traveled south through Konya. Konya is famous as it is the home of the Whirling Dervish started by the Melvana Mohammed Jelaleddin Rumi. Although we didn't see any spinning you could definitely tell the city atmosphere was far more conservative. Which is odd as the sect has very liberal philosophies.

On our way towards the coast we make a few stops to see Roman ruins along the way. As I am not a huge history buff, I focused on more of the architectural details rather than who conquered whom at various points in time.

For me another highlight came as we stepped on board the boat and set off into the sea. We tucked into a few coves to give us a chance to swim and eat. It was incredibly calm and not too chilly. In the morning we had a great breakfast, donned our swimsuits and made the most of the warm waters. It was a day of swimming, eating, sun tanning, a few archaeological views and more swimming. Heaven in other words!

Our hosts were also adorable. A husband and wife that make their living taking tourists around the coast. They made us feel welcome and took excellent care of us all.

After leaving the boat behind we had a quick trip into our next seaside town, Kas. This adorable place could easily be a vacation destination for me. It is a sleepy town with excellent food and beautiful views. It over looks several islands that are apparently Greek. It has a few beaches nearby so it is a perfect chill out spot.

We are now heading north again back towards Istanbul. Still lots to see and explore, not to mention lots more baklava to be eaten!

Turkish Treasures

Arriving in Istanbul, Turkey I was immediately struck by the kindness of strangers. While I was trying to determine how to get to my hotel, a sweet gentlemen came up to me to offer support. He didn't hesitate to call up the hotel to get instructions on the best way to get there. It turned out we were on the same bus into Taxsim square and had a great chat about the development of Istanbul. He further instructed the bus driver to show me where the next connection point would be. Which he did despite not speaking much English. These people are very hospitable.

I joined my GAP group at the hotel and we set off the next day around the country for our two tour of western Turkey. Thankfully I have four days to explore Istanbul when the tour ends. It looks like a fascinating city - more to come on that.

We reached Ankara by overnight train. Not my favourite time spent, but it was better then previous train rides. In Ankara we visited Ataturk's mausoleum. He was the father of Turkey's revolution and still revered highly by the country.

We ended the day in the Cappadocia region with a delightful meal in a local family home. They accepted us with open arms despite our smelliness from not having showered in two days. The food was great, the kids cracked out the music and danced for us, even grandpa giggled in the corner as some of our group attempted the dancing.

The treasure of the region are the Fairy Chimney rock formations. There are tens of thousands of these pillars that have been formed by a combination of volcanic eruption and water and wind erosion. Centuries ago (maybe longer) the three volcanoes in the area erupted and covered the land in metes of ash. They also deposited chunks of basalt rock around the area. Then over time water traveling down to the Red river carved around the basalt rock leaving only the area under the rocks. Wind also carried away the ash and topsoil not held down by the basalt rock. Later further eruptions lead to the pillars being coated in basalt ash therefore creating a protective hard shell around the pillars. They became hard enough to withstand the elements and to form a solid structure but soft enough to carve into.

Over time people in the region turned these pillars into home, businesses, places of worship and more. They would hollow out the pillars to create multilevel spaces. The first forms of condos!

We spent two days hiking through various valleys and scrambling over these formations. It is like a jungle gym for big people. It was so cool. I have always been amazed by nature's ability to create great beauty, but this year I have found a new appreciation for the expanse of diversity in that beauty. Nature is a truly surprising artist.

In Cappadocia the group also decided to go for the Turkish Night event. This include dinner and a show. Normally I stay away from these events as they are very touristy and the food is never very good. This was no exception, but at least there was an open bar. The night included several styles of dance and music. We started with the Whirling Dervish which were not overly impressive. Then we had several forms of folk dances. One of them even included the classic tale of a boy trying to impressive the girl with his strength, dancing prowess, and financial means. In the end, it was when he showed his true heartfelt feelings that she softened and accepted his proposal. Even in Turkish folklore romance wins out. The evening ended with a belly dancer. She was pretty good, but was outdone by our very own Alan. He had been selected to go up with several other men from around the room. He strutted his stuff and shimmied like a pro. Clearly this is not the first time he has strapped on a bedazzled veil and shock what his Mama gave him!

As we left Cappadocia we made a stop at an underground city. My claustrophobia kicked in big time as we descended into the tunnels, but unlike the Chuchi tunnels in Vietnam I managed to get through without a major panic attack. I was glad I did it, but even happier to get back out into the fresh air and open space. Like camel riding, I think I can now say that I have done it, ticked the box, and no longer need to experience it again.
Next stop Konya and then to the southern coast. Yeah - back to the beaches!

Rounding out Spain: Sevilla to Madrid

I was back behind the wheel again for our trip from Cordoba to Sevilla. I can´t express how much I have missed driving this year. It is a sense of control and freedom you just can´t get from any other mode of travel. Thankfully my travel companions were willing to indulge me, especially with a few stalls in intersections as I got used to a stick shift again.

The drive was great until we arrived in Sevilla near dust, under the threat of dark rain clouds, and with a map that didn´t list even half of the streets, let alone which ones were one way. We all did remarkably well and after almost two hours of circling our hotel we eventually got their. Thank goodness for Celia´s Spanish and the kindness of strangers.

As we turned in the car to the rental agency, I realized that although I love to drive, I take for granted that I generally do so in a country with wide roads, grid pattern streets and proper maps. I was glad to leave the car behind and head for the taxi stand.

Sevilla turned out to be an lovely surprise. Although I had not done much reading up on the place, I wasn´t sure if there was much to the city. Turns out there is tons.

We visited the Sevilla Cathedral (another over-the-top monument to the Catholic faith) and the Real Alcazar. The Real Alcazar was another Moor style palace and gardens situated right in the middle of the city. It always amazes me to experience such expansive grounds in the heart of a city. It is nice to see that the city values these landmarks and preserves them.

I have to admit, that by this time I was reaching my threshold of religious and architectural sites. I had to balance out my time with some other pastime... shopping.

On our last day there, Celia and I made our way to the Plaza de Espana which was wholly impressive too. It is a dedication to the entire country with lovely mosaic pictorials for every region of Spain. In the centre is a grand foundation. The Spanish never do anything in half measures.

Madrid has been a great city to end our tour in. We are staying in the heart of the city center so we can easily walk around. We did the Prado museum and generally chilled out.

One highlight of our time here has been a fantastic Flamenco show we saw last night. The musicians we expressive and guitarists kept us all entertained. However the three dancers (two women and one man) were definitely the stars. They threw down such unbelievable moves that even the musicians were picking their jaws up from the floor. We had gotten great seats right at the stage so the fast foot work was right up close and personal. I was awe struck several times at the speed and strength of their movements. It is definitively a passionate dance, but these dancers gave 200% of themselves and left everything they had on the stage.

As I leave Spain I am certain I will visit it again. It has so much to offer and in such a comfortable way. The people and places are genuinely worthy of more exploration.

Toronto arrives on the adventure

This past month I have been traveling with friends from home. We have been taking Morocco and Spain by storm.

The experience has had its pluses and minuses. I have missed my friends quite a bit this year, perhaps more so than I thought I would. I had planned our meeting time with care. Not too early on so that I would have had plenty of solo experiences before seeing them, and not too late so that it wouldn´t feel like the beginning of the end.

However, I had not realized just how much of home would be coming with them. In the past eight months, home has been something I could choose to deal with or push aside quite easily. That has been the benefit of traveling alone. Even when I met up with my mother for a short visit in June it was not like having all my responsibilities laid before me.

With my friends here I feel myself slipping into thoughts about work, relationships, life balance, etc. All the notions I choose to get away from this year so I could get a clearer perspective or simply reboot my ideas all together. These topics are not foreign to me this year, but I have not had to face them so directly like I have these past weeks. My friends certainly did not set out to bring this extra baggage with them. I suppose it was inevitable.

I knew my thinking and outlook would change over the year. How could it not. I didn´t plan to work on anything specifically, but hoped that many of my beliefs would be examined and tested in new light. What I have found in the past weeks is that my tolerance for many everyday things is different. I am not as caught up with constantly evaluating things. I don´t set expectations as much or as high. This then allows me to enjoy what is before me for what it is, far more than what I expected it to be. This is a big break through for me. As many of you know, I have lived by set standards and established expectations most of my life. I needed to experience something in my mind before setting out in real life. Now, I find I am more likely to just show up and experience what is on offer; good, bad or otherwise. It makes for far less anxiety and stressed.

There is a downfall to this though. I do find it hard to keep up with people who do experience great excitement or disappointment. I can´t seem to match their enthusiasm and therefore I think I come off seeming blase about everything. Which is not the case. I still do experience highs and lows, but just not in the giant pendulum swing I did before. I need to work on expressing my experiences now that I don´t have the springboard of expectation to work from.

Another change I have noticed is that I not longer see life as black and white as before, especially when it comes to other people. Don´t get me wrong, there are still many fundamental truths I believe in, but the grey shades are more pronounced. Before I would hold fast to my truths no matter the circumstance. Now I think I am more open to interpretation depending on the situation. This is harder to adjust to. Life was simple when there was one set of rules applied to everything. But given what I have seen and experienced across such a variety of populations, it is hard to hold fast to rules than are born from only my history. I am no Zen master - I still get annoyed when someone screws with my plans, but instead of only thinking of them as an idiot I try to understand where they are in their life and how their actions are designed (that´s usually when I realize they weren´t scheming to make my life miserable) . I still have a long way to go
with opening up my perspectives, but I feel like I have made a chink in the fortress.

I have no idea whether these changes, and others, will remain with me once I return home. Hopefully the evolution of Allyson will continue. Until then I will keep trying to experience all that I can. Clearly this year of adventures has made its mark on me. Let´s hope I am recognizable enough to those back home.

As for my friends visit, it has been a highlight for sure. It wasn´t everything I expected (can´t give up all levels of expectations), but it was what I needed. Love, support, hard realizations and laughs that only your close friends can provide. Thanks Celia, Katheryn, Stuart and Manish. I love you all more than you know or I could ever express.

A cultural oasis in the south of Spain

For our second week in Spain, we headed south. We flew down to Granada. We had wanted to make the picturesque drive along the Mediterranean coast, but we didn´t have the time. Besides, Celia and I had spent plenty of time on the road in Morocco.

Granada is the home of La Alhambra. The last Moor stronghold that was handed over to King Ferridge and Queen Isabella in the 88th century. Today you can tour the expansive grounds and walk through the Royal Palace. It is a real treat to see the unbelievable beauty of the craftsmanship. Every corner is decorated with mosaic tiles or carved plaster work. The details are amazing.

I took tons of photos. I have been attracted to architectural elements my entire trip, and the Alhambra gave me quite a bit of good material.

In addition to the palace grounds there were extensive gardens to see as well. We were very lucky that a lot of the flowers were still in bloom. The Moor´s certainly knew how to live! They had impressive cistern and water irrigation systems as well. Everywhere we turned there were fountains and pools. You could really feel effective of all that water keeping the surrounding area cool and fresh.

Granada also offered up a festival and musical interludes. We ended up in a plaza one night where a singer was belting out the tunes and a number of the locals were kicking up their heels and strutting their stuff. It was a really sweet community feel.

We also got literally caught up in the annual parade of the local patron saint. The Madonna of Angst (or something to that effect) is taken from its home chapel and paraded through the streets of Granada once a year so that the locals can see her and honour her presence. The honouring comes in the form of walking slowly in a procession (seemed to only be women dressed in all black or white) with candles. Everywhere we turned the Angst lead troops seemed to be bearing down on us. It was a unique slice of Granada life that I am glad to have seen, but won´t need to witness again. I have enough angst thank you.

We rented a car to tour the area and to get us to Sevilla. We took a great trip into the Sierra Nevada mountains and down to the Mediterranean. It was really nice to get out of the city, but more importantly I got to get back behind the wheel!

On our way to Sevilla we stopped into Cordoba to visit the famous Mezquita. This is a religious building that is an amazing blend of cathedral and mosque. It started as a small cathedral which was destroyed when the Moors invaded and took over. Over the foundation they built a modest mosque will fantastic internal pillars. Over the time of their reign in the region, the Moors expanded the mosque in impressive successions. There was definitely a lot of out doing predecessors in their approach. Then when the Spanish Christians took over the area again, they decided to convert the mosque back into a cathedral. In the centre of the large prayer floor now stands enormous alters and chorus areas. These areas are also overdone in their style as if to overshadow any remnants of the previous tenants. All around the outer walls are chapels dedicated to saints and biblical events. It is truly a spectacle to see.

Spain has a greatly diverse past and culture. The really impressive thing is how they embrace this history and blend the cultures into a wonderful and modern lifestyle. I am as taken with Spain as I was all those years ago when I first visited. I look forward to my time in Sevilla and Madrid next.

Spanish Reunion

Getting back to a European country was a bit of a relief. Morocco had been fantastic, but there is nothing like being able to drink the water from a tap to tell you that you have returned to a more comfortable level. I think that will be a benchmark for me moving forward. I can travel anywhere, but can only live in a country where you can drink tap water.

After a quick overnight trip in Girona, Celia and I made our way down to Sitges to meet up with the boys, Stuart and Manish. This was the first reunion of the 6th floor neighbours in over 8 months. We found them lazying on the beach enjoying the Meditarrean sunshine and surf. Stiges was exactly what we all needed. A place to recharge and transition into our Spanish tour.

We were treated to several good days of sun. There was also a wine festival on so Stuart was in heaven. Generally we chilled on the beach.

Moving up to Barcelona we got back into the touring mode. The good old Hop On / Hop Off bus took us to all the groovy Gaudi sites and gave us a good sense of the city. Got to love a good hop on / hop off.

I had been to Barcelona in 1994 and was eager to get back to it. I love the style of the city and am fascinated by Gaudi´s imagination. He was either on some crazy drugs or had a vision few people have the talent to harness. The scale of his work is also incredible. His Apartment project is probably my favourite piece. It is a great example of his fascination with organic shape and texture. But the really remarkable aspect is that he started with an existing building and simply clad it with his only ideas. I wish I had the vision to see creative solutions like that from basic building blocks. That is a skill I have also been envious of, and Gaudi is obviously a master.

During our time in Barcelona there was also a large music festival on. We were lucky enough to see a few free concerts all in outdoor venues. There was a great variety of options to appeal to every taste.

Spain is shaping up to be a great segment of this adventure. the pace of life is great, the food (and tap water) is wonderful, being in warm temperate climate is perfect; and I have my closest friends with me to enjoy it all.

Morocco´s dynamic duo

Our adventures in Morocco were made all the better by having a great tour guide, Rachid, and a fabulous driver, Ishmael. They were our dynamic duo. The Batman and Robin of Morocco. They were always smiling, laughing and keeping us all entertained and safe. This was especially impressive given that it was Ramadan so for most of the time they were starving and dying of thirst.

Rachid was particularly funny right after breaking his fast in the evening. You could definitely tell that his blood sugar levels were back up to normal (or beyond). He would get quite punchy and flip. Ishmael, on the other hand, was more subdued. He was the tall, dark and handsome one, whereas Rachid was the practical joker bouncy one. Both were excellent.

During our tour we came across a couple of interesting events. Things you wouldn´t find on the options list. On the day we left the Sahara for the High Atlas, we got delayed for two hours due to a flooded bridge. When we came into the area, it was immediately apparent that something wasn´t quite right. There were many many cars, trucks and buses pulled over to the side of the road, and all the people seemed to be milling about way up ahead. Ishmael pulled over and went to investigate. He was back soon enough and announced that the small bridge ahead was under about a foot of fast moving water. This was the effect of the little bit of rain we had had the night before. The river system in Morocco is well managed to get any water from the mountains down into the central part of the country very efficiently. In this case, too efficiently.

Our entire tour group got out of the bus to go and investigate further. Surely it couldn´t be that bad. And indeed, it didn´t look that bad. Our bus should be able to plow through without any issue. But Ishmael wasn´t having it. He had responsibilities. He wasn´t about to get his bus and 15 foreigners flushed down river. Besides, he had heard there was a tractor on the other side that was coming to pull people across. He would only wait for that.

We all tried to convince him it would work. Rachid tried to steal the keys. But in the end, we waited for the tractor. Once it arrived there was heavy negotiation needed to convince the tractor guys to take us across. They had been told by the police to stop all transport as it was too dangerous. Rachid jumped into action with his Berber skills and convinced the tractor guys that he´d take all responsibility for any police issues. We needed to get across. They finally agreed and we were ready to go; until we saw the method for attaching ourselves to this salvation - a coat hanger!

OK, so it wasn´t actually a coat hanger, but it was wire not much thicker than a coat hanger. This, this bit if flimsy wire was supposed to stop us from sliding off the bridge into the raging torrents. Ishmael, Rachid; this had better work!

We got our connection twisted up to the tractor and we set off in neutral. Ishmael didn´t want to run the engine so that it didn´t pick up any water damage. So, that meant we didn´t have any brakes - great. We inched across all expecting to be whisked over the edge at any second. At the very least, water would surely come flooding up into the bus and soak us from below. The tractor guys were giving all kinds of hand signals, nothing we immediately understood, but gave us confidence that there was a secret language between Ishmael and the tractor. Safety seemed so close, yet still so far. What would happen next?

Nothing! We made it through without incident. In fact it was a bit anti-climatic, not even our luggage area got wet. Nevertheless, as we hit dry land, the cheers and applause rose up from the bus. All the locals just shook theirs heads in disgust, ´crazy foreigners, we do this all the time;. Ishmael and Rachid were our heroes again! Getting us through the raging rivers of Morocco.

The following day provided another opportunity for the guys to show the chivalry skills. Again as we were starting out for the day, we came across roadway trauma. This time it was a car completely flipped over onto its roof. A single guy was wandering around the wreak. Ishmael immediately pulled over and our duo hopped out of the bus to see what assistance they could offer. One of our tour mates was a nurse, so she jumped out too to evaluate the driver for concussion. Again the bus emptied and we all evaluated the situation. The poor guy was not likely impressed that he was now the centre of so much attention.

Rachid spoke to the driver of the car while Ishmael laid out large rocks as pylons to keep passing cars away from the accident. Further Ishmael hopped back in the bus and took off in search of police. He return with them in tow. It was at this point the group started thinking we needed to fit this guys with capes and spandex tights!

Turned out that is driver got caught in a bad overtaking situation and was forced off the road. The good news was that he was not hurt, bad news was the other cars involved in the accident had taken off, so he was left to deal with the police by himself. Rachid did his best with translation.

Once the police had everything in hand, we were all ushered back into the bus. Back on the road - another round of applause for our tag team of good guys!

It is so important to have good people to travel with. Rachid and Ishmael went beyond the call of duty everyday. I have a feeling that most Moroccans would have done the same things. It is a very kind and gentle nation.

Shokran guys!!

Sahara Sand Dunes

I have had it with camels. I am so over any novelty or sense of adventure they may bring to a tour. Four hours over two days was it. I am done! However, the experience they brought me to was worth it in the end (just barely).

Our tour around Morocco took us to within 60 miles of the southern border with Algeria. We arrived to Merzouga, on the edge of the Sahara desert. It was massive sand dunes for as far as you could see. It was spectacular. Similar to my experience in Wadi Rum, Jordan with the Bedouin tribes, but a bit different. Same, same but different.

The local indigenous people are Berbers. They are relatively nomadic people moving with the water supplies they can find. Our hosts at the Auberg were lovely. At night we were treated to good food and even better musical treats. Several of the guys played drums, while one played a recorder and another kept time with an interesting set of cymbals.

The next morning we got up to see the sunrise. We hiked out into the dunes for about 20 mins and watch the sky light up. It was pretty overcast, so we missed out the typical fireball on the horizon.

After breakfast, we went into the local village to learn about the handicrafts industry of the local Berber tribes. Carpets and rugs were the big items on offer. All lovely pieces, but unfortunately, not very travel friendly for me.

Late in the afternoon we set out on the first camel ride (2 hours) to our desert tents. We were to spend the night under the stars in amongst some of the biggest dunes in Morocco. The ride out was not too bad, as far a camel riding goes. But let´s be honest, it ain´t no suspension gliding ride in a Mercedes or Benz!

That night we enjoyed a great meal and settled in for our night in the open air. Check that, our night in the blowing air. About two hours after lights out, the wind picked up and we were sand blasted. It began to settle down after about 45 mins, however what we were actually experiencing was the eye of the storm, because as the wind died down, the rain started. The group reacted in almost military precision. We were up, sleeping mats, sheets, and blankets rolled up. Sleeping rug pulled into a nearby tent, sleeping mats unrolled again, bags brought in and bodies back into beds within about 7 minutes. Very little talking, just action. The musty tent did keep us dry, but the smell kept many of us awake for most of the night.

The next morning at 5:30 we were scrambling up a 150 metre high dune to catch the sunrise again. This time a fire ball crested over the horizon. Ahhh! So beautiful.

Another 2 hours by camel back to the auberg were what really put me over the top. Despite having a pretty mild mannered camel, I have to say, I am done! So long sand dunes and farewell to the humped-back butt buster camels. Never more shall I ride your bumpy backs.

Magical Morocco

I arrived in the famed city of Casablanca on Saturday. I have never seen the movie all the way through, but I can say it was not what I was expecting. It was a hot, very developed but basically a nondescript place. Obviously our tour company didn't see much cultural value in the place as well. We spent the night there and hit the road early the next morning. We did make one stop on the way out of town at the largest mosque in the country, Hassen II. It was exquisite in its carvings and decorations. We are traveling during Ramadan, so the Muslim rituals and customs are very much in the forefront in our discussions and interests as a group.

Our first destination was the capital city of Rabat. We were taken on a guided tour of the exterior of the Royal Palace and the mausoleum of Mohamed V. Both again showed off an amazing level of detailed carvings and artwork. The blend of Arabic and Moorish qualities are beautiful. There are layers upon layers of marble and plaster carvings. Then it is interspersed with mosaic tile work that is all hand chiseled.

In many cases the building and craftsmanship was completed in astonishing time frames as the workers were on site 24 hours a day. The work is incredibly consistent as well. It would be amazing to see that quality of work put into buildings in North America today.

We were also taken to our first Kasbah. Which is apparently a city within a city. The one in Rabat had been a garrison, but now seemed to be more of a hippie community (if such a thing can exist in an Arab country). This one overlooked a beautiful beach on the Atlantic coast. The locals were having a great time in the surf. I can honestly say that I didn't expect to see surfers here - but why not. The surf looked great.

We stayed over in Meknes, an imperial city. The first of four we were going to see. In the morning we were on our way to Fez, with a stopover in Volubilis. Volubilis was an ancient Roman city. The number of intact mosaic artwork was impressive. Many of the houses still had enough definition to understand where the individual rooms had been. Again, I was taken aback by the openness of the ruins to the public and the elements. In North America I would expect to see something like that completely sealed up and visitors kept at a secure distance. Thankfully that is not the case here.

Fez has been a highlight so far. It has a medina (ancient walled city) that is a wonderful labyrinth of alleyways. It is a complete city unto itself with plenty of industry to keep a strong local community thriving. In fact, the population has boomed enormously in the last thirty years. We weaved through the Medina with a local guide who had grown up on its twisted streets. He kept up a feverish pace so by midway through the day most of us were pretty tuckered out. We had been taken to several Arab outlet shops. That is where the guide gets a bit of a kick back when his tour buys. Therefore the price is never quite as good as you could get on your own.

We had spent two night in Fez. Which allowed us to get a better vibe for the city. With Ramadan on the city comes alive when the sun sets. At seven o'clock the fast breaks with a quick drink and snack and then evening prayers takes place. Afterwards, everyone has their breakfast and comes back to life after their long day of no food or drink. There was a long boulevard near the hotel that seemed to be a meeting place for festivities. Many people strolled along the wide sidewalks, or sat at the tea houses catching up with friends and family. Even young children were up late playing in the fountains and taking in the action. Much of the activity went on well into the night as people stayed up to make the most of their time to eat and drink. Another long day of fasting awaiting them at the next sunrise.

Today we made our way south past the Middle and High Atlas. We are now settled into our Sahara section of our tour complete with local Berber accommodation, music and hospitality. This reminds me of my recent experience in the Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum, Jordan. Which was a significant highlight, so I am excited to see where this opportunity will lead. However there are two camel rides in my not too distant future, not my favourite thing to do by far. Fingers crossed I will survive the hard humps!

Note: Photos to follow. Morocco is not known for its Internet service so uploading is proving to be a real challenge.

Ireland once more

I had to return to Ireland for a couple of reasons; one, I had to renew my passport - I had run out of pages, and two, I still had a lot to see. For a small country it has a lot of sights.

After getting all my details sorted out at the Canadian Embassy in Dublin, I headed west to Galway. It had decided to travel via bus, thinking I would be able to take in a lot more of the countryside. Good idea if I had actually stayed awake for it all. Oops.

I was not so keen on seeing the city of Galway itself. Although it is a perfectly nice harbour town, it was the countryside to the north and south that interested me more. I spent a day each going up to Connemara and then down to the Cliffs of Moher. Both were well worth the visits. And in both cases I got relatively lucky with the weather - which makes a huge difference in the enjoyment factor. I knew Ireland was going to be cooler and wetter than just about all my other destinations this year, but this has been a tough month.

Connemara has soft undulating hills of green glens and purple heather. It is the classic Irish countryside that makes you yearn to go for a walk across. This is the stuff of Irish Springs commercials. In fact, our tour guide whistled just liked they did in the ads.

The Cliffs of Moher are not the tallest cliffs in Ireland, but they sure are impressive. The day before I went the tail end of hurricane Bill was passing by. I am glad I missed out on the rain and wind, but it would have been impressive to see the waves whipping themselves against these enormous cliffs. As it was, we had a great view of the Arran islands and plenty of patches of sunshine.

After the west coast, I made a run for the border. I took a eight hour bus ride from Galway to Belfast, crossing the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Thankfully there was no fanfare, as I didn't have my passport with me. I had to leave that in Dublin with the embassy. I had been told that I would likely be ok, but until you actually get there you never know. In fact, the only real distinction between the two countries is when you are reminded that traffic signs are now shown in miles per hour (Northern Ireland) vs kilometers per hour (Republic).

Arriving Belfast, I unfolded myself off the bus and found my way to my next hostel. My hostel experience in Galway had been great. The place was clean, fab location, friendly staff and easy roommates. I had opted for my own room in Belfast - thank goodness. The place was a dump so at least I didn't have to worry about freaks in the room too. I mentioned to the front desk staff that the toilet room near my bedroom had brown smears on the wall (ewww) , they were unimpressed and told me to use a different toilet. Yipee! The Northern experience had a harder edge than my time in the Republic.

I got out to see the city on my first full day. I was pouring rain for most of it, but that didn't dampen the spirit of the city. Most people I met had stories to tell of 'The Troubles', but were very quick to say how happy they were that those times seemed to be behind the city. However, there had been a series of killings last year so not everything is behind them. The city is still festooned with bunting of the Irish Nationalist or the Union Jack flags. You definitely know when you cross the divide between two districts. There are still many violent murals in the heart of each section. The city is grappling with the historical value of them. Many would like to see them removed or replaced with more neutral themes.

The city's other fascination is with Titanic. The ship was built in the famed Belfast shipyards of H&W. Locals are quick to point out that it was just fine when it left its shores. It was the English captain, Scottish designer and the Canadian iceberg that caused the problem!

On day two, I joined a tour to Giant's Causeway. It is an interesting rock formation created when lava from an erupting volcano hit the cold water. In true Irish style, there has been a tremendous tall tale create regarding the Irish giant, Finn MacCool to explain the formation. Apparently, the Irish giant was taunting a Scottish giant to a fight and built this causeway to allow the two to duke it out. Needless to say the irish giant picked a fight he couldn't win and had to hid out to avoid a thrashing. His wife was the cunning one who managed to save the day - figures!

I have to say I was a little underwhelmed by the causeway. But the stunning coastline and beautiful scenery we were treated to along the way were well worth the price of admission.

I made my way back to Dublin the following day. Still no border issues - phew.

In case you ever need to know, a temporary passport is white and only has two pages in it. So I was really no further ahead than when I started. Let's hope the new permanent one is waiting for me in Madrid later this month.

I am leaving for Spain tomorrow morning. Not before I have one last hearty lamb dinner and the pride of Ireland, a pint of Guinness. I will be heading for O'Neill's for my last Irish meal. It has been a good destination. One I would recommend to anyone. As long as they come prepared for wet weather and a Celtic pride that will make anyone wish they had a lick of the brogue in em.

Scottish likes and dislikes

Things I like about Scotland:

Swirling clouds - the sky is never still in Scotland. The old adage about waiting 10 mins if you don't like the weather is really true here.

Fringe Festival - so much fun and the city's style adds so much to the whole event

Good friends & family - I have had a great reunion with all my Scottish contacts and made some new ones along the way

The countryside - the rolling green and purple hills that seem to go on for ever

The accent - even when you can barely make out every third word, it is still fun and dead sexy

The lanaguage - seemlingly made up words like swithering, blaggard, and wee that just make sense in context

Haggis - that's right; I tried it, survived it, and even quite like it

Traffic lights - they flash red and yellow just before the light will turn green

Things I don't like about Scotland:

Midges - swarms of small biting bugs that always seem to find any flash of bare skin

Larges groups of tourists from the same country - this is not unique to Scotland, but just became very apparent while on the bus tour to Inverness. Half the group were Italian and were annoying the rest of the bus to no end. How do you say "shut up" in Italian?

Scotland at last

I have been in Scotland for the last 10 days - and thankfully I still have a week more. I had wanted to come here for quite some time and I have not been disappointed in the slightest.

I have been very fortunate in that I was able to enjoy the wedding of a good friend, Ange, and several shows at the famous Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Perfect timing.

The weather has been a wee bit wet and a wee bit sunny, but mainly cloudy, which is expected at this time of year. If it weren't for the weather, I reckon I could put Edinburgh on the list of possible places to live. It is a fabulous place. It is very historic, with amazing buildings. It is also tightly packed to make getting around a traveler's dream. The Fringe Festival has amped up the activity level in the city. There are 100's of shows each day and dozens of street performers everywhere.

I have also had the pleasure of being in Ayrshire (south west coast). The wedding was in Ayr and then my friend Karen and I went over to the Isle of Arran for a few days. We didn't succeed in getting up Goatfell mountain (we didn't even try to be honest), but we did manage a couple of good walks out to ancient stone circles and up to a beautiful waterfall. We also drove the entire width and breadth of the island. It is known as Scotland in miniature, so I feel it helped me understand this grand country.

I have also gone north to Inverness. The search for Nessie was not successful, but it was still a magical place. The rolling green hills and the gentle water have a calming effect on everyone who passes by.

I still have some more exploring to come. I will head to Glasgow for a few days before heading back to ireland next week. I am sure I will be back to Scotland in the future.

I had a brief visit with friends, Alison & Peter Wood. We met on my tour in South East Asia and promised to meet up when I made it around to their neighbourhood. It was great to catch up with them after all this time. It really reminded me just how much ground I have covered this year.

I want to wish Gary and Ange all the very best in their new life together. It was such a treat to be apart of your wedding. Thanks again.

Disaster has struck

For some reason today when I went to sign into my email account and catch up on all my communications I found myself staring at a message that told me that my email account had been cancelled. NOOOOOOO!

Your stomach hits the floor and suddenly your whole life passes in front of your eyes. What the hell happened.

Before I judge to quickly (deep breath), and jump to any conclusions (deep breath), or throw myself off the nearest bridge (deep breath), I have sent off a couple of emails to people who may be able to help (please, please, please).

My entire life is tied to that email account, not to mention all my data for traveling this year. All my itinerary information, all my credit card and financial data, plus all the communications I have had with friends and family. All lost in a single key stroke. OK, that is a bit over dramatic. It isn't lost, but all my access has now been pushed over to another account and no one can contact me on my old address. What a nightmare, especially when I am sitting in Scotland hours ahead of anyone in Toronto who can help me. This must be a lesson in patience and stress management. Something that I have to go through to see a bigger picture... blah blah blah. CRAP!

Come to think of it, I woke up in a panic the other night for no apparent reason. I couldn't get back to sleep and couldn't understand why I had suddenly woken up with a sense of uneasiness. Perhaps it was at that very moment that someone / something severed my electronic lifeline. AHHHHH!!!!

So for anyone who needs to get in touch with me for the next little while (showing faith that my account will ultimately be restored), then my new account is allyson_boode@yahoo.ca.

Signing off for now to give the Internet gods time to review their heinous mistake and find a way to restore my address and my sanity. Pray for me!!

Dublin does me right

I arrived in Dublin with high hopes for Ireland. I have always felt it had a certain allure. It is an interesting mix of heritage and modern technology. Plus it is the home of my favourite beer; Guinness.

I got settled into my hotel which was just outside the main hub of the city. I am okay with this, as it means I shouldn't have to deal with noisy revelers or dodge and smelly puddles in the morning.

My first mission was to find the Canadian Embassy. I have a dilemma with my passport - it is running out of pages! I only have two left. I had hoped to replace it while here. In the end, I have to settle for a temporary and then have a permanent replacement sent to a destination further along in my journey. Keep your fingers crossed!

As in many cities, I decided to do the bus tour. Dublin isn't terribly big, but it does have a good collection of worthwhile stops. One of which is the Guinness Storehouse. The source of Ireland's black gold, not to mention a great place to view the city. The Gravity bar at the top of the building give a 365 degree view of Dublin. Which is fantastic especially while you sup your complimentary pint. As with many cultural stops I have been to this year, Guinness put on a great showing for you €15. No only do you get a historical view of how Arthur Guinness got started in the trade, but you also get an overview of the ingredients, how they are blended into the magic that is Guinness, plus you can see some of the most iconic advertisements thru the ages.

I also stopped into a few churches and historical buildings. However, I have to say, the Irish charge for entering a church. That has been a first for me on this trip. I am not sure how I feel about it.
I have left a good part of the city untouched as I will be back a few more times. I will spend two nights here before heading to Scotland and at least another night here on my second leg of the Irish tour.

Off to Kilkenny and Cork now. I hope they offer up a new slice of Irish life as well. My beer tasting will continue, but I am doubtful much will compare to my beloved Black and Gold.

Friends revisited

Earlier this year I took a tour through Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. While on that trip I met a delightful couple from Wales. John and Penny were very easy going and always had room for me to join their table or activities. At the end of the tour, we gave the perfunctory "if you are ever in the neighbourhood, give us a call". At that time, I was not planning on being anywhere near Llangollyn, Wales. However, as my travels unfolded, it became a possibility, and then a certainty.

I sent out an email to John and very quickly I had an invite for a visit. It was fantastic to catch up with them after all this time. I have covered so much ground since February, but some of my fondest memories have been from that trip through South East Asia.

We got caught up on recent events and I got to meet the famed Billy; their jack russell terrier. He is adorable. It is always interesting to see people in their home setting. Penny has an enormous garden that is in full vegetable production and John, semi-retired, was never far from his laptop, working on various projects. He used to tease me for my addiction to the Internet when we were on our tour. How the tables have turned.

In the evening we found ourselves off to an outdoor production of Shakespeare's "Much Ado About Nothing" by a traveling troop. It was very well done and the setting couldn't have been any better. It was on the lawn of a historic house with a castle up the hills in the distance. William would have approved, I'm sure.

I am so glad that I have not over packed my schedule so that these last minute options can be slipped in. One of the real joys of this year of adventure is the friendships that I am developing. Thank you to all I have met.

Murray girls on the loose

I met up with two of my Murray family aunties (Sal and Ruth) in Liverpool. They were already touring the area and I joined the duo for a few days.

Liverpool far exceeded my expectations. I hadn't done any research, I was leaving everything up to my aunts. We stayed in a fabulous apartment style hotel in the heart of the city. We did the city tour to get our bearings and learned a thing or two along the way. I hadn't realized that Liverpool played such a big role in the slave trade. Dark past. Also, the Titanic was listed Liverpool as its port, but it was built in Belfast. And of course the city is full of Beatles mentions; starting with the John Lennon airport.

We actually went to the Beatles experience at Albert Dock - well worth a visit. I have done quite a few exhibits and heritage / cultural sites this year. There is a real art to making these places compelling without being cheesy. The Beatles Story hit the mark for sure.

We left Liverpool and headed into Wales. You can tell you are in Wales because the signage changes - it becomes bilingual. However, it doesn't make any sense. Welsh is generally a string of consonants with a few vowels (usually y's) thrown in haphazardly for good measure.

We spent two nights in Betse-y-coed (sound it out) in a cute B&B. However, when we reached out room we were a little stunned...we had the jungle room...it was full of stuffed animals and print patterns. Just because you have your own establishment, doesn't mean you can get away with bad design. I mean, there was literally a rope hang on the wall with toy monkeys hanging from it. We had quite the giggle fit once the owner was out of earshot.

For my birthday, we had a reservation for a steam train ride up Snowdon Mountain. It is the tallest mountain in the UK. Wales is full of hobby train services. The Snowdon train provided a lovely one hour tour of the stunning scenery around the national park. When we reached the top, it was completely socked in with clouds - that's how high we were. After a bit of lunch, we decided to walk down. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but oh how wrong we were. It took 3 hours to get down and then several days to regain the ability to walk normally. My calves have still not forgiven me. So much so for the wisdom that is meant to come with age.

That night, Sal and Ruth treated me to dinner for my birthday. It was a fantastic dinner with all the trimmings. I even got a delicious chocolate cake without the annoying singing waiters. It was fabulous.
The following day we stopped in at Portmerion, a small heritage village developed by a wealth architectural fanatic. I think the guy must have enjoyed some acid in his day, because the place is quite a trip. It is a weird mix of buildings and landscapes all thrown together. He developed such an ecceltic mix that many people sent him strange statues and facade pieces to add to the town. Looks like he took it all in and found homes for all the bits and pieces. There are statues and art pieces popping out from every corner. You can easily get the feeling that you are being watched and when you turn around there is a face poking out from something. It took me awhile to stop wondering what it was all about and just go with the fun of it.

The following day, I said goodbye to my aunties. We had covered a lot of ground together (especially vertical), but I needed to move on and they had a schedule to keep as well. I never had any doubt that my 40th birthday would be special, but it was far better than I imagined thanks to my lovely and generous aunts! Thank you Sal and Ruth - love you!

Birthday Blog

When I turned 5 years old I ran down the street screaming, "I'm 5, I'm 5, I'm 5 today". I have never been secretive or elusive about my age. I can't understand those people who turn 29 over and over again.

Maybe it is because most people don't think I am as old as I am. I have been blessed with a younger look. I think the freckles help. Although I didn't always think so. When I was a kid I hated my freckles, I thought they were ugly because I looked different. My Mum promised me that by the time I was 21 they would be gone. On my 21st birthday I called her and told her she lied. I hadn't actually believed they would be wiped out over night, but I was hoping I would blend in more, and at that point in my life I was still not feeling very blended.

This year I am taking particular pleasure in developing new freckle patches. I have had a lot of opportunity to get out in the sun, and like with my freckles, I am choosing to not think of myself as being different from the norm, but rather offering up alternative norms to look at.

My father has a good phrase he likes to say about aging; "The alternative to getting old is no fun". Definitely words to stay alive by.

And so on this day, in a small village in Wales, I am walking down the street saying, "I'm 40, Im 40, I'm 40 today!"

Happy Birthday to you all!!

Back to Holland, back to family

Arriving in Amsterdam I was met by my cousin's partner, Gregor. He is a lovely guy who packed me into his equally lovely car and took me back to their apartment.

It is huge; and not just by Amsterdam standards (not that I know what those are, but I can imagine they aren't big). It is bright, airy, and delightful. As Gregor worked for a bit, I plopped myself out on the balcony for a bit of a lazy retreat. Sunshine on my toes, reading my book, listening to the sounds of the neighbourhood. Life is pretty grand!

Yesterday, I had a call from a good friend of mine back in Canada. Alfred and I have worked together for many years at Rogers, so he was able to catch me up on some resent happenings at the office. Looks like the more things change, the more they stay the same. Thankfully, I have not been missing work for quite some time. I occasionally miss having some work to do, but that feeling usually passes fairly quickly. Besides, traveling is work. I may not be managing people or partnerships anymore, but I do have to stay on top of transportation, accommodation, finances, and communications everyday.

Sitting on this balcony in Amsterdam I am more and more happy with my decision to take a year off from my Canadian life. I knew if I didn't take this chance this year, I would regret it. And so far, I have no regrets.

Later on once my cousin, Josie, had returned from work we fell into an easy rhythm of chat. She and I have not spent a lot of time together, (in fact we can't remember when the last time we saw each other - could be over 20 years ago), but yet we caught up on things like we had been together only months ago. This is one of the joys of this part of the adventure. I don't have to explain myself from scratch to everyone I meet. Which can be exhausting and limiting. With family there is a baseline of understanding. And in our case, our mother's keep us well in formed about each other's families so when we do connect after years, we can pick up the stories easily. God, love our mother's.

I didn't grow up with much access to my extended family, so I have always been drawn to building a relationship with them. The trouble is we all still live so far apart and contact is still only sporadic. I am excited for this brief chance to catch up on their lives. I may not see much of Amsterdam, but the time will be well spent.

Wow - that sounds stalkerish... I am just happy to be hang with my cuz for a bit!

Brugge: much nicer than it sounds

I spent a lovely day wondering the streets of Brugge. The weather was bright (for the most part) and there were lots of old buildings and cobblestone streets to keep me entertained. I hadn't any idea of what to see or do while here. I just knew it was meant to be a good day trip from Brussels. It did well in regards to medieval looking squares, churches and monuments. Lots of history, if I bothered to look up the details.

I even treated myself to lunch in the main square at one of the many terrace restaurants. I decided on the set menu despite the high tourist price. I started with a dark Leffe beer (never tried that one before). There was also a small bowl of nuts delivered to the table with the beer. I am always apprehensive of these gestures. Too many times I have ended up with an extra charge on my bill. The sneaky "costly complimentary" snack.

The remainder of my lunch consisted of a salad with farmer's ham to start and a beef and pork stew as the main. The stew was cooked in dark beer so I am not sure I can count another beer for that one. I finished with creme glace for pudding. It was all delicious. Worth the splurge.

As hard as I tried to concentrate on this lovely town, my mind kept slipping back to the first street I came to; Steenstraat Or to those of us living out of a single bag for a year; mecca! It was lined with clothing shops. What's more, everything was on sale!!

Let's just say, I have got some tricky packing ahead of me. Good thing is that once I hit Wales in a few days, I can hand off a couple of pieces to my aunt (kisses Ruth) to take back to my stash at her house.

In actuality, I only picked up two dresses. Not bad considering what I was up against. And for those of you who know me well, you will think I have lost my mind when I mention that I didn't even go into the half dozen or so shoe stores. I mean really folks ... I might actually be sick.

Back in Brussels I had a quick bite to eat and then off to my hotel. I am returning to Holland tomorrow for a couple of nights. Amsterdam here I come!

Belgium on the hop

I decided to come to Belgium pretty much on a whim. I hadn't read up on the country or really given it much thought until I was on the train from Rotterdam to Brussels.

When I arrived at the Noord station, I thought I had made a horrible mistake. It was pretty desolate and it was pretty evident that I had stepped into the heart of the red light district. Great!

Thankfully the 20 minute walk to my hotel got me into a safer area, albeit only mildly. My hotel itself is very nice but the description on Booking.com should elaborate on the neighbour at bit more.

No worries. After checking in and a quick respite, I headed out to the city centre for a quickie look around. Along the way, I stumbled across St. Micheal's Cathedral which was lovely. The priest was performing mass in Flemish so it was a good way to wipe away the images of peep shows and condom shops from my recent memory.

I was also able to find the Grand Place. Normally, it would be hard since the signage here is very good, but a lot of the city centre is torn up for repair work. Much of it trying to be completed before the National Day, July 21.

I weather throughout my stay has been a mix of sunny blue skies and fast moving dark rain clouds with the ability to flood the streets if you are not careful.

With uncertain skies above, I headed for the movies. I had not seen a flick since Cape Town and need to get a popcorn fix. For anyone who has not seen the Hangover, step away from the computer right now and go see it. Definitely the funnest thing I have seen in many years. Good call Celia, thanks for the tip.

In my brief visit to Brussels, I have developed a checklist for anyone planning a visit, or like me, just finds yourself here. It is really a delightful place, despite what the Dutch say about it.

Brussels checklist:
Giant molecule - check
Left over from 1958 World's Fair. Cool science project.

Grand Place - check
Seen both by day and by night.

Mannequin Pis - check
Only the Belgians would make a little boy peeing a national symbol. I wonder if Benny Hill was actually born here.

Seat of European Union - check
Saw all the monuments and buildings swing by as I ducked for cover in my sightseeing bus because there was a massive downpour for 5 minutes.

Moules - pass
Seafood is still not my thing.

Belgium Waffles - check
With strawberries, bananas, and chocolate. If you are going to do it, might as well do it right. And I didn't spill any on myself!!

Frites - check
Belgium is apparently the birthplace of fries. They were good especially with the traditional mayonnaise, but they didn't rival my childhood favourite; Blue Water bridge chip truck. Can I get a witness?

Chocolate - check
Picked some up for friends, so had to sample a piece to be sure I was getting the good stuff.

Bizarre hand ball game - check
Played in the middle of the Grand Place with grown men slapping a small rubber ball back and forth; no discernible rules. I guess the soccer teams were already full at school when these guys went to sign up for sports.

Beer - check, check, check, and check
There are over 400 beers produced in Belgium so I will have to come back to do them justice. It is good practice for my upcoming trip to Ireland.

So much for the 20lbs I had lost so far on this trip. I am going to have to keep up with my rigorous sightseeing walks if I want to maintain my culinary delights.

Tomorrow I am off to Brugge for the day. Again, I don't really know that much about the place except it is meant to be beautiful. Let's hope the train station isn't hooker haven or that the city father's haven't decided to erect a monument to the desecration of public space by a little boy and his willy.

Holland: Land of water

The pace isn't slowing down as I move into my second week in Holland.

I have been to a cute historical pioneer village called Zuider Zee Museum. The fishing heritage of Holland is well represented with a complete recreation of a typical town. All the buildings have been brought from around the country to give authenticity to the park. You can see how the people lived and the various businesses in the village, including a school, sail maker's shop, cheese shop and the all important candy shop!

On Sunday, I met up with another cousin, Marja, in Rotterdam. She has lived there all her life, including the difficult years during World War II when most of the city was destroyed by bombings. As we strolled through the streets she was able to tell me delightful stories about various buildings and districts. We also took a boat cruise through the harbour. It was incredible to see the enormous machinery used for all the shipping business. What was particularly shocking was the vast numbers of empty containers sitting around the piers. You can really see how the world economy has brought this port to an almost standstill.

The following day I went to one of my favourite cities in Holland; Delft. It is an adorable city perched over countless canals. It is truly a picturesque town. Most people make their way through the cobble streets on bikes, so it also remains a very clean and quiet city. I was also able to have one of my favourite Dutch treats - poffertjes. We had our pancake snack in the main town square with the sun shining bright and a jazz brass band playing swing classics. It was fantastic.

We made a quick (and cheap) visit to the Delft Blue museum to see the famous Delft Blue pottery. If you arrive after 4:30 it is free to enter, since they close at 5:00. You have the place to yourself and 30 minutes is plenty of time to view the collection. Plus, you can rush pass the overpriced gift shop at the end since they want to close up on time. The artistry of Delft Blue is incredible. There are so many intricate patterns and designs all created with various intensities of the renowned blue tone. Some of the most interesting pieces were those commissioned by people or companies that wanted archways or fountains in their buildings. They have been donated back to the museum for display.

Today was spent in Leiden, which is another historic town nearby. Again, you can get easily lost in all the small streets and alleyways. Lucky for us we had Anne to keep us on the march. Anne works in Leiden and often strolls the streets during his lunch break. Rembrandt was born in Leiden and is very much a beloved character in the town. His birth home has been replaced by a modern apartment building, but across the street is a small park dedicated to him.

Tomorrow we are off up to Friesland in the north if the country for a couple of days on the boat; the adventure continues!!

Making new family connections

As part of my year of traveling I wanted to reconnect with many family members who I haven't seen recently. This generally means my father's side of the family, as I see my mother's side every few years or so.

So I have returned to Holland after 24 years; a lot is new, but some things remain unchanged. I came here twice as a child as well. But I think this time I can finally appreciate this part of my heritage. It is a remarkable country with a rich history.

My father fled Holland to the Dutch West Indies with his family during the war. He only returned for a short time before emigrating to Canada as a teenager. Therefore, our connection to our Dutch relatives has always been very thin.

During my visit here I have spent my time with my father's cousins. They have been so incredibly kind and generous to take me around to so many interesting sights. And there is quite often a story that connects a relative to each place.

I have been to Den Haag (The Hague). This was where my father grew up as a small boy. It is a beautiful old city with typical canals and fleets cyclists making their way around the tiny streets. Holland is definitely a country of bicycles. Nowadays, Den Haag is known as the place for justice. War criminals from around the world are brought here to answer for their actions.

We were also in the south of the country to visit my cousin, Serena. She is eight months pregnant, so our time was spent cleaning the baby furniture and getting the room ready for the new arrival. It was great to be able to offer some support. No point sitting around drinking tea when there is work to be done. She lives on a farm where she keeps her two horses, two dogs and four cats. These animals will have some tough competition when the baby comes. However, she is well suited for managing chaos, as Serena is a police officer.

I have also been to a lovely castle, Slot Loevenstein. It is situated on an island at the convergence of two rivers. The count that build the fortress charge a toll to all ships in the rivers. He was often under attack, but managed to reap a good bit of money. Later the castle was turned into a prison as it was quite isolated. Hugo de Groot, a founder of modern law, was imprisoned there until he escape in his book chest in 1621. This scheme was conceived by his wife and her maid.

The castle is near Woudrichem, a quaint historical town. We had a fantastic dinner at the old town hall or Raadhuys (pronounced rat•house). Not the best name for a restaurant, but it was certainly delicious.

We also stopped by a charming medieval town named Heusden. It is a walled city on one of the many rivers in the area. It reminds you just how precarious life in a sub-sealevel country really is. In Holland there is entire government ministry dedicated to monitoring the water levels. There is a well developed series of ditches, canals, rivers, lakes and pumps to move water through the country and out to the sea. Holland is essentically a catchbasin for most of north eastern Europe. There are even giant sea gates at the base of the Maas river that can be closed in case of rough weather in the North Sea. If there is a high likelihood of surges, then the gates are closed and all shipping, both in and out has to stop. You can imagine how expensive it can be to be trapped at dock with a cargo hold full of goodies. Worse yet, to be trapped outside the gates in the ferious North Sea.

This has been a whirlwind tour so far with so much to see, and it is only just started. I hope I can keep up the pace. My relatives are in great shape so I will have to keep moving to stay with them.

Bubbly and basking in France

When I travel, I always evaluate a city or location from the standpoint of whether I could live in the place or if it is just a place to visit. Mostly, I decide that I can manage living in any big city, but wouldn't survive well in smaller towns. The south of France is one of the only exceptions.

I love the area my aunt Jane lives in. St. Antonin du Var is a lovely spot near Nice that provides a great escape destination.

My Mum and I were looking for a couple of down days to recoup from our fever pace in Paris - St. Antonin was just the place for some chillaxing.

On the two day trip from Paris to St. Antonin, the three of us invibed in some local specialties. We stopped in Eparney which is in the heart of the Champagne region. We took the tour of Moet & Chandon. Their carve has over 10 million bottles of champagne. Needless to say, Mum and I were quite excited - Jane was driving so she could only have a small taste. We enjoyed a glass of their annual masterpiece. They blend up to 300 different wines to develop the exactly the same taste every year. This also is the reason that most champagnes do not have a vintage year. They are a blend of so many years that they can't designate a single year for a vintage. The other thing I learnt while in the home of Dom Perignon is that a champagne can be stored at home for as many years as it has been aged in a carve. So if you have a three year old champagne, then you can keep it at home for another three years before it looses its bubbles. But then again, who would ever
keep bubbly lying around that long!

After we dried out from Eparney, we spent a night in Beaune, a quaint little town in the midlands of France. It is well known for being the place of the first hospice centre. We had a stroll through the sweet little town and tried not to think of the sorrow happening in the hospice nearby.

Once in St. Antonin we only exerted ourselves when absolutely necessary. The most excitement we had was watching the men's finals at Wimbledon. It was an amazingly grinding match between Federer and Roddick. Federer finally eeked out a win (his 15th major - passing Sampras for the most ever) in 5 sets. It was tough that someone had to loose. They both played with a lot of heart.

We also found our way into a couple of village markets. These are essential aspects of life in the south of France. I could definitely get used to a pace of life like this.

I hope to return someday soon. This is definitely a slice of paradise, and I have the good fortune of being related to the generous owner!!

Paris in Springtime

I am in Paris for four days with my Mum. We decided that this would be a good stop for us in amongst our family visits.

We have had glorious weather with brilliant sunshine and high 20s temperature. The city is warm and full of life.

We have covered a lot of ground in a few short days. We started strong with a hike up to Sacre Coeur to take in the full view of the city. We then walked down through the smaller streets to the Moulin Rouge. Going from saints to sinners in a few blocks. We took in more of the city views from the roof terrace of the Galleries Lafayette. I am not sure what is more stunning, the view of the city or the domed mosaic ceilings inside. We got a chuckle from all the ladies that were lunching in the high-end cafeteria on the 6th floor and all the kids were up on the 7th with their bags of McDonald's.

We scored a great deal on a city tour that allowed us to tour over two days. We rounded out the first day riding high above the fray and taking in all the big attractions. The only downside was that I had forgotten to charge my camera battery, so I ran out of juice just before we hit the Eiffel tower.

As we returned to our hotel neighbourhood, we realized that we were in the heart of the Gay Pride Parade route. The boys were out in full force with lots of music and very little clothing. I felt like I was on Church street. Happy Pride to all my Gay and Lesbian friends!!

We finished the night with a quick subway ride out to see the Eiffel Tower twinkle at 11pm. It was pretty, but not as special as I expected. Our CN Tower puts on a more impressive display.

On Sunday, we finished off the other tour bus routes and landed ourselves at the Hotel des Invalides. We strolled through the impressive grounds of the previous hospital. It is now a museum for military armory (not my thing really).

We had decided that the Louvre was too crowded and not needed, so we opted for the Musee Rodin and Musee d'Orsay instead. If you are a fan of sculpture, then the 1€ entrance fee to the gardens at the Rodin Museum is the best money ever spent. I can't believe it is that cheap. We went into the small indoor exhibit as well, which was nice, but not necessary. The only major work they have inside is "The Kiss".

The Musee d'Orsay was also fabulous. The Impressionist are all well represented with some very famous pieces included in the permanent collection.

We headed home to our hotel for a rest and dinner of cheese and bread - can't beat that! When in Paris...

We took it easier on Monday. We started with a quick walk through Notre Dame. Two things about churches in Paris amaze me; 1) the are free or by donation to enter, 2) despite the hundreds of signs asking people not to talk or use flash photography, everyone does. I am not a religious person, but I know enough to respect the rules. Sheeish, heathens!

We next took ourselves via metro to the Arc du Triomphe. It was more interesting than I thought. The carvings on the pillars were very intricate. Finally, we began our stroll down the Champs Elysees - shopping time! I felt a indescribable pulling sensation as I walk past shops. I guess the shopping craving never leave you. I snatched up a couple of cute tops in the spring sales!!

We treated ourselves to a lovely dinner in the Italian district. I had found in our guidebook a street with three recommended restaurants. When we arrived, one of them was full up with about 20 people outside. This was clearly a popular place. We opted for across the street and enjoyed a delicious set menu that didn't cost the national debt. I had known that Europe was going to be expensive compared to Africa and Asia, however when you see a small bottle of Coke for 4.5€ it really makes you gag.

We are off to the south now. My aunt Jane has picked us up in Paris and we will drive to her place in Province. I am looking forward to chilling out for a few days by her pool. Hopefully her broadband service will allow me to get caught up on my photos again.

Bonjour mes amies!