Saturday, September 12, 2009

Sahara Sand Dunes

I have had it with camels. I am so over any novelty or sense of adventure they may bring to a tour. Four hours over two days was it. I am done! However, the experience they brought me to was worth it in the end (just barely).

Our tour around Morocco took us to within 60 miles of the southern border with Algeria. We arrived to Merzouga, on the edge of the Sahara desert. It was massive sand dunes for as far as you could see. It was spectacular. Similar to my experience in Wadi Rum, Jordan with the Bedouin tribes, but a bit different. Same, same but different.

The local indigenous people are Berbers. They are relatively nomadic people moving with the water supplies they can find. Our hosts at the Auberg were lovely. At night we were treated to good food and even better musical treats. Several of the guys played drums, while one played a recorder and another kept time with an interesting set of cymbals.

The next morning we got up to see the sunrise. We hiked out into the dunes for about 20 mins and watch the sky light up. It was pretty overcast, so we missed out the typical fireball on the horizon.

After breakfast, we went into the local village to learn about the handicrafts industry of the local Berber tribes. Carpets and rugs were the big items on offer. All lovely pieces, but unfortunately, not very travel friendly for me.

Late in the afternoon we set out on the first camel ride (2 hours) to our desert tents. We were to spend the night under the stars in amongst some of the biggest dunes in Morocco. The ride out was not too bad, as far a camel riding goes. But let´s be honest, it ain´t no suspension gliding ride in a Mercedes or Benz!

That night we enjoyed a great meal and settled in for our night in the open air. Check that, our night in the blowing air. About two hours after lights out, the wind picked up and we were sand blasted. It began to settle down after about 45 mins, however what we were actually experiencing was the eye of the storm, because as the wind died down, the rain started. The group reacted in almost military precision. We were up, sleeping mats, sheets, and blankets rolled up. Sleeping rug pulled into a nearby tent, sleeping mats unrolled again, bags brought in and bodies back into beds within about 7 minutes. Very little talking, just action. The musty tent did keep us dry, but the smell kept many of us awake for most of the night.

The next morning at 5:30 we were scrambling up a 150 metre high dune to catch the sunrise again. This time a fire ball crested over the horizon. Ahhh! So beautiful.

Another 2 hours by camel back to the auberg were what really put me over the top. Despite having a pretty mild mannered camel, I have to say, I am done! So long sand dunes and farewell to the humped-back butt buster camels. Never more shall I ride your bumpy backs.

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