After getting all my details sorted out at the Canadian Embassy in Dublin, I headed west to Galway. It had decided to travel via bus, thinking I would be able to take in a lot more of the countryside. Good idea if I had actually stayed awake for it all. Oops.
I was not so keen on seeing the city of Galway itself. Although it is a perfectly nice harbour town, it was the countryside to the north and south that interested me more. I spent a day each going up to Connemara and then down to the Cliffs of Moher. Both were well worth the visits. And in both cases I got relatively lucky with the weather - which makes a huge difference in the enjoyment factor. I knew Ireland was going to be cooler and wetter than just about all my other destinations this year, but this has been a tough month.
Connemara has soft undulating hills of green glens and purple heather. It is the classic Irish countryside that makes you yearn to go for a walk across. This is the stuff of Irish Springs commercials. In fact, our tour guide whistled just liked they did in the ads.
The Cliffs of Moher are not the tallest cliffs in Ireland, but they sure are impressive. The day before I went the tail end of hurricane Bill was passing by. I am glad I missed out on the rain and wind, but it would have been impressive to see the waves whipping themselves against these enormous cliffs. As it was, we had a great view of the Arran islands and plenty of patches of sunshine.
After the west coast, I made a run for the border. I took a eight hour bus ride from Galway to Belfast, crossing the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Thankfully there was no fanfare, as I didn't have my passport with me. I had to leave that in Dublin with the embassy. I had been told that I would likely be ok, but until you actually get there you never know. In fact, the only real distinction between the two countries is when you are reminded that traffic signs are now shown in miles per hour (Northern Ireland) vs kilometers per hour (Republic).
Arriving Belfast, I unfolded myself off the bus and found my way to my next hostel. My hostel experience in Galway had been great. The place was clean, fab location, friendly staff and easy roommates. I had opted for my own room in Belfast - thank goodness. The place was a dump so at least I didn't have to worry about freaks in the room too. I mentioned to the front desk staff that the toilet room near my bedroom had brown smears on the wall (ewww) , they were unimpressed and told me to use a different toilet. Yipee! The Northern experience had a harder edge than my time in the Republic.
I got out to see the city on my first full day. I was pouring rain for most of it, but that didn't dampen the spirit of the city. Most people I met had stories to tell of 'The Troubles', but were very quick to say how happy they were that those times seemed to be behind the city. However, there had been a series of killings last year so not everything is behind them. The city is still festooned with bunting of the Irish Nationalist or the Union Jack flags. You definitely know when you cross the divide between two districts. There are still many violent murals in the heart of each section. The city is grappling with the historical value of them. Many would like to see them removed or replaced with more neutral themes.
The city's other fascination is with Titanic. The ship was built in the famed Belfast shipyards of H&W. Locals are quick to point out that it was just fine when it left its shores. It was the English captain, Scottish designer and the Canadian iceberg that caused the problem!
On day two, I joined a tour to Giant's Causeway. It is an interesting rock formation created when lava from an erupting volcano hit the cold water. In true Irish style, there has been a tremendous tall tale create regarding the Irish giant, Finn MacCool to explain the formation. Apparently, the Irish giant was taunting a Scottish giant to a fight and built this causeway to allow the two to duke it out. Needless to say the irish giant picked a fight he couldn't win and had to hid out to avoid a thrashing. His wife was the cunning one who managed to save the day - figures!
I have to say I was a little underwhelmed by the causeway. But the stunning coastline and beautiful scenery we were treated to along the way were well worth the price of admission.
I made my way back to Dublin the following day. Still no border issues - phew.
In case you ever need to know, a temporary passport is white and only has two pages in it. So I was really no further ahead than when I started. Let's hope the new permanent one is waiting for me in Madrid later this month.
I am leaving for Spain tomorrow morning. Not before I have one last hearty lamb dinner and the pride of Ireland, a pint of Guinness. I will be heading for O'Neill's for my last Irish meal. It has been a good destination. One I would recommend to anyone. As long as they come prepared for wet weather and a Celtic pride that will make anyone wish they had a lick of the brogue in em.
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment