On the ferry ride over the heavens open, it poured with rain and we were suddenly dealing with 8-12ft swells. It is amazing how quickly the sea can turn. We made it into port soggy and cold. I still wanted to make the most of it and resisted the urge to stowaway onboard for a quick ride back to the mainland.
I took the funicular up to Capritown only. Most of the stores and restaurants were closed up for the season so there was very little refuge from the down pour. I managed to tuck into a small coffee shop. Again I was scoffed at for my cappuccino request, but being chilled to the bone, I didn't take it to heart. As sipped slowed at my coffee hoping that I wouldn't be put out by the owner as more and more travelers found their way into this dry oasis. I needn't have worried as the owner came through the place with a free flowing bottle of Lemoncello for all her patrons. Apparently we had given her one of the best days in takings in recent weeks, and she was not interested in letting her cash cow slip away. She managed to score several more orders of coffee, lunch dishes and pastries. She was even scooping out tons of gelato, although she scoffed at those wanting cold food as well.
As I finally extracted myself from the coffee shop melee, the clouds were parting. The sun started to beat down as if it were a mid summer's day. By the time I had made my way around several of the side streets, I was striping off my many layers and wondering why I had not brought my sunscreen.
In the end, my trip to Capri delightful. It was full of character and generosity; two things I have found in abundance so far in this region of Italy.
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