Michael Meltdown

Unless you have been living under a rock, you know that Michael Jackson passed away last week. I had was in England at the time, but on my way to Paris.

All the news papers were headlining Jackson end and speculation about the cause of death was already rife.

On my first night in Paris, you could have sworn every Michael Jackson fan was here. There was a huge mob of mourners making their way from St. Michael square (where else) to Note Dame. There were banners, flowers, people clad in every tour t-shirt imaginable and even a few wannabe Michaels. They we headed to a vigil ceremony in front of the church. I didn't see the event personally, but being only a few blocks away from Note Dame, we felt like we were part of the festivities.

I have not heard so much Michael music in years. Personally, I stopped listening to him when the pedophile rumours kicked off years ago. I am not sure he did anything, but I always thought he enjoyed the limelight around those allegations a little too much. I like his music, but wasn't a devout Jacko wacko. Obviously, many Parisians were, but then again, you know what they say about the French musical taste.

Photo Bonanza

Thanks to the speed and reliability of my family's BT Broadband (shameless plug), I have now been able to catch up on all my photo uploads.

Please take a look at the latest and greatest of my adventures:

South Africa

Kenya

Egypt

Jordan



Many thanks to Andrew and Shelia.

Photo downlow

I am having difficulties keeping up with my photo uploads. I was spoiled by fast, reliable and cheap internet access in South East Asia and South Africa. Here in the Middle East things are quite different.

I have finally finished uploading all my South Africa photos, although some are still unnamed and need to be oriented correctly. Bare with me please.

I am now working on Kenya which hopefully will be done within a week. There a photos of baby elephants in that batch - so cute. I will then be able to add my latest tour photos; Egypt and Jordan. I promise you they are worth the wait.

Once everything is caught up, I might even be able to slip a few pics into my blog entries to really enhance my crazy adventures.
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Serenity now

Yesterday was certainly a highlight of my overall trip, let alone my tour through the Middle East.

We camped with the Bedouin in the desert of Wadi Rum. This must be one of those things that is on '1000 things to do before you die' or similar style lists. It was relaxing and exhilarating all at the same time.

We drove from Aqaba to Wadi Rum in the late morning, so when we arrived at the camp it was close to the hottest part of the day. After stashing our things in tents, we were invited to a large open (but thankfully covered) sitting area. Almost every place we have arrived at on this trip has offered us a welcome drink of juice. At the camp, we were given tea. The tea was a mix of straight black tea and herbs. It was flavoured with sage, cinnamon, and thyme. It was very refreshing, and apparently good for your stomach (which was a benefit for me as I am currently suffering from King Tut's revenge).

The Bedouin people are incredibly generous and friendly. It is reported that if you are lost in the desert and lucky enough to be found by the Bedouin then you will be accepted into their family until you are well enough to travel on.

We were given this level of hospitality. We were served a simple but delicious lunch. Left to snooze the afternoon away and then take for an amazing ride in the desert.

Our driver was the camp's owner, and clearly he was pleased to get out into the open expanse of the desert and let the wind rip through his headdress. We surfed up and over sand dunes and blasted along at 100km / hour. All along being surrounded by majestic granite hills that looked like they had been carved from wax. The colours and textures were astounding. I hope my photos (snapped at high speed from the back of the pickup) do the place justice.

Along the way, we picked up a stray dog cute enough to be Disney's next big star. We had stopped to look at some carvings in a cave. The dog was hanging out there seemingly all alone for days. She followed behind our truck until the next stop. Given the heat and her obvious lack of nutrition, we were compelled to take her with us.

After some more dune driving, we arrived at another tented area for a tea break. The Bedouin's love their tea.

I had opted for the shorter 2 hour tour, where some others had been out for 4 hours. We all met in one small canyon for sunset. We climbed to the highest rocks we could get to with just enough time to spare. The setting sun coloured the desert with pinks, oranges, and smoky reds.

When we descended down from our perch there was yet another round of tea to be had before we headed back to camp. Our driver, made the most of the ride home by keeping to the desert paths rather than connecting to the asphalt roads. He was enjoying himself as much as his tailgate riders.

The culinary treats continued. The Bedouins generally cook their food in hot pits dug into the sand. We were shown our food being excavated from the ground. As it was lifted from the hot pit, the smell of roast lamb, chicken and potatoes wafted across the camp. We were all instantly ravenous.

The meal was juicy and flavourful. And you could tell it was a hit for everyone as the entire group ate in silent rapture. There was also a unified gasp when we discovered that our dessert was a fresh orange. I had been fantasizing about oranges the day before, so for me it was like someone had read my mind!!

The camp was lit with hundreds of small yellow bulbs tucked into paper bags. The amber glow was soft and just bright enough to light your way. There were even lights up in the small caves of the mountain next to the camp.

The evening ended around a large fire with a couple of the cooks breaking out a guitar/lute and drum. We were serenaded with their local songs. We were also drawn up out of our seats to dance around the fire by the bartender.

We slept in simple tents (or some actually slept outdoors). The heat from the day was completely gone, so we enjoyed a perfectly temperate night.

Everything in this camp seems to run on time, but yet the schedule is as flexible as everyone needs it to be. It appears as though the Bedouins have truly mastered a work / life balance that offers success and a peaceful spirit. Their hospitality was a blend of generosity and a jovial laugh. Serenity now is not a battle cry for the haggard and worn out in this desert shelter, but rather a way of life; simple, warm and rewarding.
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Serenity now

Yesterday was certainly a highlight of my overall trip, let alone my tour through the Middle East.

We camped with the Bedouin in the desert of Wadi Rum. This must be one of those things that is on '1000 things to do before you die' or similar style lists. It was relaxing and exhilarating all at the same time.

We drove from Aqaba to Wadi Rum in the late morning, so when we arrived at the camp it was close to the hottest part of the day. After stashing our things in tents, we were invited to a large open (but thankfully covered) sitting area. Almost every place we have arrived at on this trip has offered us a welcome drink of juice. At the camp, we were given tea. The tea was a mix of straight black tea and herbs. It was flavoured with sage, cinnamon, and thyme. It was very refreshing, and apparently good for your stomach (which was a benefit for me as I am currently suffering from King Tut's revenge).

The Bedouin people are incredibly generous and friendly. It is reported that if you are lost in the desert and lucky enough to be found by the Bedouin then you will be accepted into their family until you are well enough to travel on.

We were given this level of hospitality. We were served a simple but delicious lunch. Left to snooze the afternoon away and then take for an amazing ride in the desert.

Our driver was the camp's owner, and clearly he was pleased to get out into the open expanse of the desert and let the wind rip through his headdress. We surfed up and over sand dunes and blasted along at 100km / hour. All along being surrounded by majestic granite hills that looked like they had been carved from wax. The colours and textures were astounding. I hope my photos (snapped at high speed from the back of the pickup) do the place justice.

Along the way, we picked up a stray dog cute enough to be Disney's next big star. We had stopped to look at some carvings in a cave. The dog was hanging out there seemingly all alone for days. She followed behind our truck until the next stop. Given the heat and her obvious lack of nutrition, we were compelled to take her with us.

After some more dune driving, we arrived at another tented area for a tea break. The Bedouin's love their tea.

I had opted for the shorter 2 hour tour, where some others had been out for 4 hours. We all met in one small canyon for sunset. We climbed to the highest rocks we could get to with just enough time to spare. The setting sun coloured the desert with pinks, oranges, and smoky reds.

When we descended down from our perch there was yet another round of tea to be had before we headed back to camp. Our driver, made the most of the ride home by keeping to the desert paths rather than connecting to the asphalt roads. He was enjoying himself as much as his tailgate riders.

The culinary treats continued. The Bedouins generally cook their food in hot pits dug into the sand. We were shown our food being excavated from the ground. As it was lifted from the hot pit, the smell of roast lamb, chicken and potatoes wafted across the camp. We were all instantly ravenous.

The meal was juicy and flavourful. And you could tell it was a hit for everyone as the entire group ate in silent rapture. There was also a unified gasp when we discovered that our dessert was a fresh orange. I had been fantasizing about oranges the day before, so for me it was like someone had read my mind!!

The camp was lit with hundreds of small yellow bulbs tucked into paper bags. The amber glow was soft and just bright enough to light your way. There were even lights up in the small caves of the mountain next to the camp.

The evening ended around a large fire with a couple of the cooks breaking out a guitar/lute and drum. We were serenaded with their local songs. We were also drawn up out of our seats to dance around the fire by the bartender.

We slept in simple tents (or some actually slept outdoors). The heat from the day was completely gone, so we enjoyed a perfectly temperate night.

Everything in this camp seems to run on time, but yet the schedule is as flexible as everyone needs it to be. It appears as though the Bedouins have truly mastered a work / life balance that offers success and a peaceful spirit. Their hospitality was a blend of generosity and a jovial laugh. Serenity now is not a battle cry for the haggard and worn out in this desert shelter, but rather a way of life; simple, warm and rewarding.
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Egyptian sizzle

Egypt continues to sizzle - or maybe that is just my skin! This is a beautiful country, but vast parts of it are barren wastelands of dry desert and hard rock mountains. Apparently, 80% of the population lives on or very near the Nile or Red Sea. This makes lots of sense and I can understand this well coming from Canada where we all congregate near the US border.

We visited Luxor where the Great Karnack temple is located. This is reported to be the largest temple in the world. It was stunning to see the architecture and innovation within the place. Parts of the ceiling are open at specific heights to allow for a constant flow of air. Thus producing the first form of air conditioning - pretty cool for something built more than 4000 years ago. The open court area has 182 pillars within it - all carved with hieroglyphics depicting different stories and teachings. Kings used these temples to remind the people of their great victories over enemies. However, some Kings were jealous of previous ruler's accomplishments, so carved over the original stories.

We rode to and from the temple in horse drawn carriages given us the sense we were dignitaries tour the town. We were seven carriages in total, so we made quite the procession. On the way back from the temple we went through the local market. The carriages barely squeezed through the tiny passage ways . We were treated to vast diversity of food items, clothing, electronics, mechanical parts and more. And as with all outdoor experiences in Egpyt, we were subjected to countless cat calls and proclamations of true love. Apparently, the average woman in our group would fetch upwards of 300 camels.

We returned to Cairo for a day and visited the Citadel. This houses several mosques, the most famous of which was built by Muhammad Ali (famed prophet, not boxer). The exterior is a series of silver domes that can be seen for miles around the city. However, the real beauty lies within the walls. The main prayer chamber has hundreds of glass globes hanging from the ceiling and a dozen chandeliers all ablaze in warn light. The ceiling has gorgeous fresco and mosaic pieces. It is certain a sight for an Arabian Nights type movie.

Our guide continues to be a bit dramatic and pushy. I think he feels like unless we do all the optional activities then we aren't having fun. He doesn't realize that many of us have done quite a bit of traveling and therefore are more content with some the highlights and the occasional extra. Either that, or his kick backs are adding up like other trips. In Egpyt, every gets paid a tip; most times for doing almost nothing.

We finished our tour in St Katherine and Nuweiba (pronounced new•way•ba). St Katherine is where Moses went up a mountain and received the Ten Commandments. The hike up to the top is reported to be 3705 steps of repentance. I say reported, because I didn't count them nor did I make it to the top. I got to about 1500 steps and figured I had cleared my sins (being such a good girl - hee hee). Most of my group did make it all the way up. Good for them!!

At Nuweiba I had the chance to make a last escape into the depths of the Red Sea. I figure it could be a long time before I find my way back here so I took advantage while I could. It was not as vibrant as my experience in Sharm el Sheikh, but still great to be back in the sea.

Today we are heading across the Strait of Aquaba to Jordan. We are now seeing at the ferry terminal waiting for the boat to arrive. There is no set schedule (this is Egyptian time - a slightly less annoying version of African time), so the most we know is that the ferry should be leaving between 3-5pm.

I am excited to move across into Jordan. I know very little about this country and its culture and people. We have a lot lined up for the seven days we are there. I am sure it will go by so fast.
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Egypt by plane, train and felucca

I flew back up to Cairo on the same day that Obama was in town to give his speech on how America wants to work better with the Muslim world. The speech was a huge hit in this part of the world. As I was driving in from the airport I saw the Air Force helicopter take off from the university. Traffic was still snarled as everyone stopped to watch the helicopters.

I am now on my Egypt / Jordan tour. This one is a GAP Adventure tour, and all seems to be good so far. There are 15 participants in total, mostly from Canada and the US (no Danes in sight). Our leader, Mamdouh, is a little over the top. I think he spends a bit too much time in the sun.

So far we have already covered a lot of ground. On day one, we did the National Museum (along with about 200 other groups). It is a small museum, so it was pretty packed. This is the first time during my travels that I have really felt sardine-like. I think this might become more of a theme throughout the summer months. I was really worried that coming to the Middle East during June was going too hot, but apparently a lot of other people felt this was the time to come too!!

I have now been to the Pyramids and Sphinx of Giza. They were impressive, but I wasn't expecting to be so close to the city. The city limits are right up to the edge of the Pyramids. You can actually stand next to one of the pyramids and see a KFC store. That just doesn't seem right.

We took an overnight train down to Aswan. This was far nicer and more comfortable than my previous experience with night trains. It was especially nice to have the cabin to myself. My Vietnamese experience came with three other cabin mates; two of whom were quite smelly and loud.

From Aswan we made the long morning trip down to Abu Simbel (very close to the southern boarder with Sudan). In order to join the bus convoy, we had to be up and gone by 4am. The Great Temple of Abu Simbel is where Ramses II declared himself a god, and ensured his heighten status with the people of Egpyt.

Today we are heading north up the Nile via felucca. Felucca's are traditional sailing boats with a single triangler jib and no main sail. Essentially we are gliding along the Nile, while flaking out on mattresses under a sun shade. Life is smooth sailing and the most I have to worry about is whether I need to put on more sunscreen. Ahhhhh!!
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Life under the Red Sea

Before I get into my scuba diving adventures, I just want to thank everyone who reached out to me regarding my last post. It is good to know that beyond this tiny Danish infested boat there are people who care about me and want me to have a good time. (Apologies to any Dane I haven't met yet who might be reading this. Your country men have set a poor example. Plus, this doesn't apply to Tina and Jennifer who are a lovely people and I hope to stay in touch with)

Ok, now on to the diving...

Wow - I have been so spoiled this week. This place is definitely a world class diving area. There is such variety and abundance. When I arrived I had only completed 17 dives, and I will have doubled that by the time I leave.

I know I have compared the underwater world to a Disney movie before, but it really is the best way to describe the shear diversity of colours, textures and marine life. Many fish defy description in their colouring, shapes and patterns. There are ones that try to look bigger than they are, there are some that try to look smaller, then of course there are one that don't want to be seen at all. Some of my favourite moments are included below, but truly this has been a total reaffirmation that I am hooked on diving.

I am not a fan of any snake like creature, this includes eels. This place is crawling with morey eels. I have seen several out in the open, on the hunt. They have large impressive heads , which consists most of jaws, and then powerful ribbon like bodies. When they are tucked up in their rocky homes, they are spooky but not that forbidding. Out in the open, they look like creatures from a prehistoric age ready to swallow you whole.

I was fortunate enough to see many kinds of lion fish. These are the ones that have big fan-like spines coming out of their bodies. They are quite beautiful, but very poisonous. They hunt in groups at night. So on night dives you could see many of them floating in full flight.

I got quite got at finding scorpion and stone fish. These fellas are coloured and patterned to blend into the rocks and coral. They ambush their prey. I even saw a scorpion fish make a kill during a night dive. It was quite impressive to see the speed at which he made the snatch, ate, and then returned motionless to his perch.

Another fun part of night dives is to see how fish sleep. Many of them wedge themselves into cracks and crevasses in the reef to stop from floating away. The cutest sleep, however, has to be the puffer fish. They curl up with their tails tucked into their sides, just like a dog or cat.

I also saw a lot of coral I have seen before. The Red Sea has incredible diversity, and is especially lush for an area with so much commercial shipping. My particular favourite soft coral is a pinkish white mini budded coral, that has hundreds of little grasping fingers constantly curling and uncurling bring any little microscopic food particles into its centre core. It is quite mesmerizing to watch.

Finally, I had a close encounter of the turtle kind. On a dive a few days ago, we came across a turtle floating near the reef, completely oblivious to us. He was happily bobbing along. However, he then became more animated as a group of small jelly fish floated past. He quickly (well, as quickly as a turtle can), lined himself up, and started to chow down. He and I were eye to eye at one point. We were only about a metre away from each other. And I swear he gave me the stink eye, when he thought I was encroaching on his buffet. It was a really amazing moment to see him so close up.
Despite my earlier post about the other members of this tour, I have had an incredible experience. Really, what's not to love about sailing around the Red Sea in the beautiful sunshine, warm water, great food, and an underwater wonderland. I hope I will have a chance to return here someday.

PS: I have new patches of freckles from this experience, so this memory will live on for some time to come.
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