Serenity now

Yesterday was certainly a highlight of my overall trip, let alone my tour through the Middle East.

We camped with the Bedouin in the desert of Wadi Rum. This must be one of those things that is on '1000 things to do before you die' or similar style lists. It was relaxing and exhilarating all at the same time.

We drove from Aqaba to Wadi Rum in the late morning, so when we arrived at the camp it was close to the hottest part of the day. After stashing our things in tents, we were invited to a large open (but thankfully covered) sitting area. Almost every place we have arrived at on this trip has offered us a welcome drink of juice. At the camp, we were given tea. The tea was a mix of straight black tea and herbs. It was flavoured with sage, cinnamon, and thyme. It was very refreshing, and apparently good for your stomach (which was a benefit for me as I am currently suffering from King Tut's revenge).

The Bedouin people are incredibly generous and friendly. It is reported that if you are lost in the desert and lucky enough to be found by the Bedouin then you will be accepted into their family until you are well enough to travel on.

We were given this level of hospitality. We were served a simple but delicious lunch. Left to snooze the afternoon away and then take for an amazing ride in the desert.

Our driver was the camp's owner, and clearly he was pleased to get out into the open expanse of the desert and let the wind rip through his headdress. We surfed up and over sand dunes and blasted along at 100km / hour. All along being surrounded by majestic granite hills that looked like they had been carved from wax. The colours and textures were astounding. I hope my photos (snapped at high speed from the back of the pickup) do the place justice.

Along the way, we picked up a stray dog cute enough to be Disney's next big star. We had stopped to look at some carvings in a cave. The dog was hanging out there seemingly all alone for days. She followed behind our truck until the next stop. Given the heat and her obvious lack of nutrition, we were compelled to take her with us.

After some more dune driving, we arrived at another tented area for a tea break. The Bedouin's love their tea.

I had opted for the shorter 2 hour tour, where some others had been out for 4 hours. We all met in one small canyon for sunset. We climbed to the highest rocks we could get to with just enough time to spare. The setting sun coloured the desert with pinks, oranges, and smoky reds.

When we descended down from our perch there was yet another round of tea to be had before we headed back to camp. Our driver, made the most of the ride home by keeping to the desert paths rather than connecting to the asphalt roads. He was enjoying himself as much as his tailgate riders.

The culinary treats continued. The Bedouins generally cook their food in hot pits dug into the sand. We were shown our food being excavated from the ground. As it was lifted from the hot pit, the smell of roast lamb, chicken and potatoes wafted across the camp. We were all instantly ravenous.

The meal was juicy and flavourful. And you could tell it was a hit for everyone as the entire group ate in silent rapture. There was also a unified gasp when we discovered that our dessert was a fresh orange. I had been fantasizing about oranges the day before, so for me it was like someone had read my mind!!

The camp was lit with hundreds of small yellow bulbs tucked into paper bags. The amber glow was soft and just bright enough to light your way. There were even lights up in the small caves of the mountain next to the camp.

The evening ended around a large fire with a couple of the cooks breaking out a guitar/lute and drum. We were serenaded with their local songs. We were also drawn up out of our seats to dance around the fire by the bartender.

We slept in simple tents (or some actually slept outdoors). The heat from the day was completely gone, so we enjoyed a perfectly temperate night.

Everything in this camp seems to run on time, but yet the schedule is as flexible as everyone needs it to be. It appears as though the Bedouins have truly mastered a work / life balance that offers success and a peaceful spirit. Their hospitality was a blend of generosity and a jovial laugh. Serenity now is not a battle cry for the haggard and worn out in this desert shelter, but rather a way of life; simple, warm and rewarding.
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