Working with great white sharks is easy...

... it is dealing with the politics of the shark cage diving industry that is treacherous.

I have now been on the shark boat for two weeks. I think I now have a pretty good idea of how these operations work and I have to say that politics appear in every industry, even in a place idyllic as this.

As I described before, the tours unfold in a pretty straightforward way. We get the clients on the boat, get out to our anchor point, chum the water and voila, sharks appear. However, there are many factors at play and we can just as easily miss the sharks. There are eight shark cage diving boats in this bay, and each one is trying to satisfy their clients with a good view

Today was a good example of bad politics. We were the third boat out of the harbour, which should mean we should get a decent spot on the reef. Lately, everyone is struggling to get a large number of sharks in, so everyone is searching for the best spot. We anchored in line with another boat just off the reef, which means our chum line will flow in parallel with the other boat and across the reef. We were a respectable distance away from them, so all were happy. We had a good working shark within about 15 mins.

Our first cage of divers got several good looks, but then the shark disappeared for a bit. This often happens but as long as you keep chumming, you pull them back in or get a different one. The chum line leads them right to you.

We had only been on anchor about 20 mins, when another cage boat slide in behind us and laid anchor. By this time the wind and currents were shifting, and when they started chumming it came directly under our boat. Which essentially means that our chum line becomes theirs, as the sharks will keep following the scent until it runs out. With them behind us, our boat was no longer at the end of the chum line. Within 5 mins, our shark from earlier appeared at their boat and they began to work it for their clients.

Our skipper is very mild mannered and kept saying, that when the other boat realized where their chum line was, they'd move off. No such luck. We eventually had to call over to them. They were not about to give up the sharks, so we were forced to move up next to them to try and regain a single chum line.

Once we repositioned, we had sharks again within minutes. However, we were virtually on top of the other boat. They kept calling over to tell us that they didn't take our chum line and that their sharks came from behind them (as if)!

Later we heard they had been told to stay away from some of the other boats. This particular boat has quite a nasty reputation on the water. It just goes to show, no matter what your business, there is always some jerk to cause issues.

In a discussion later on shore, I found myself getting very involved in trying to determine a solution. I suggested theories for conflict resolution tactics, communication styles, and impacts on crew morale. I was siting all kinds examples from my Rogers days. It just all came flowing out of me. I guess my business training hasn't been wiped out of me yet.

The truth is, I felt really useful and valuable when giving my opinions and experience. Hmmm, something to keep in mind when I get back and start looking for the next job opportunity. .

Shark Fever

So I have been working on the shark boats for a week now, and it is totally thrilling.

Most of you know that I am in the midst of two volunteer programs here in South Africa. The first one is working on a great white shark tour / research boat. The next one, that starts on April 30, will be working with a whale / dolphin team. For more details, see the Volunteer section.

So far, I have been up close and personal with about 15 different sharks. They are absolutely incredible animals. Certainly not the menacing creatures portrayed in the movies.

Decoy attack

Our day rolls out pretty much the same everyday. Our client have a briefing when they arrive at our lodge, and we generally launch between 7-9 am. It take about 15-20 mins to get to our anchor site. It is usually quite a bumpy ride over the swells. Some of the client start to turn green at this stage, but unfortunately the worse is yet to come.

Once on anchor the process of attracting a shark begins. We do chum the waters with a delicious concoction of tuna, sardines and fish oil. Nasty stuff, especially for me who can't stand fishy stuff. The chum goes into the water to create a scent trail leading right up to our boat. We also have a bait bundle that we throw into the water at the end of a long rope. This is used to entice the shark to pass along side the boat in front of our cage, giving the divers an ideal view. Lastly, we have a decoy that is in the shape of a seal pup. Our current decoy is named, George. Most people are quite happy with the thought that it represents George Bush. George has several bite marks already and is missing a flipper - poor guy.

It take as little as few minutes to attract a shark or hours. There is no guarantee we'll even get one. I have been on three miss tours already. Those are tough since the clients are naturally ramped up to see sharks. If there is a miss, then people get a voucher to come back anytime for free.

Once we have a shark around the boat the crew starts "working it". This generally means that we get it to pass a few times around the bait and see if it looks active. At the same time, we are getting the clients into their wet suits and into cage groups.

The cage experience is phenomenal, but the honestly, the best views are from the top deck. In the water you get the up close and personal feel (or fright for some). The water is only about 11C, so you spend a lot of time freezing and when it comes time to dip under, your hands are pretty stiff. I got into the first cage on my first day out, and haven't been back in yet. I will get in again for sure.

From the top deck, you can see the shark approaching, its speed and maneuverable are impressive. It will generally approach the bait bundle, which our crew manage skillfully. We do not want it to bite the bait or decoy, we pull it out of the way just as it is about to chomp down. It the shark gets hold, it can start to thrash around, and if it gets its teeth stuck on the rope or bashes its head on the boat or cage, it can cause undue stress or injury. So essentially we just tease the shark with a game of keep-away. It might sound nasty, but it produces the most number of passes and the best views.

Yesterday, I was working the decoy line and had a couple of close calls. We had a three metre male and he was determined to take George. He got me once on a sneak attach, but likely, I was able to pull poor George out of the sharks mouth as he was repositioning for a better chomp. Phew!! If you lose the decoy, you have to pull anchor and go get it.

The various boats work together and pass off anchor points if there is a working shark in the chum line. Despite the fact that all these boats are competitors, they generally support one another.

As we head in, the clients dry off and get dressed. We have a picnic hamper with sandwiches, chips and drinks. But again, depending on the water conditions, we can have lots of people with their heads hanging over the side, adding to the chum line. I think that is the only thing I have trouble with. I have never been good with other people's vomit. Give me fish guts any day over that.

When we are back on shore, the clients get to see their experience on video. Each trip is recorded and a souvenir DVD can be picked up for 350 R (US$40). The footage is really well shot, especially if we have some active sharks.

The crew and staff are excellent. If anyone wants to give this a try, I can highly recommend Marine Dynamics. Just remember to keep you fingers and toes inside the cage!!

Asian reflections

My time in Asia has come to a close. I have now arrived in Africa and will be here until June.

I can not believe how quickly this first segment of my trip has gone by. However, when I look back on all the places I have been I am impressed with myself.

I made Asia my first destination for one main reason - it is like a second home to me. Japan and Hong Kong were, in fact, home for many years. And return to them was like slipping into a comfortable well-worn pair of shoes.

I have always found Asia, on the whole, to be safe and very convenient for travellers. This time was no exception. In every country I met the kindest people who were happy to provide direction, offer suggestions on what to do, or simply share a conversation with a lonely traveller.

I was struck with the diversity of cultures. It is too easy refer to this region as one cultural block. Like many other countries in the world; political instability and war has left its mark on people's beliefs and social structures. This trip really allowed me to see these differences from many angles.

Another new view for me was the diversity of landscapes. There were vast mountain ranges, hills and valleys filled with rice paddies, beautiful sandy beaches, and bustling cities with the never sleep. There is no shortage of things to do or places to go.

This part of my journey will also likely be the cheapest. I was able to live below my budget, despite a final splash out on shopping in Singapore.

Asia is an amazing blend of the modern world with the richness of ancient cultures. It has definitely been hit by the global economic downturn, but these countries have ingenuity out the ying yang and will undoubtly make it through the hard times. The general philosophy in Asian cultures is to trust in one another, live for today and support your community as it is a part of your family. The generous of spirit here will survive.

If I didn't live in North America I think Asia would be my home.


Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Singaboring

Several friends of mine advised me to give Singapore a miss. They told me it was overpriced and not worth the effort. However, I have never been there and it held a sense of mystery. A mix of east and west in a temperate climate. What can be bad about that?

Boy, was I wrong.

I have only two days in Singapore and I think that will be more than enough. The whole city has an air of conservatism. At first I thought it was just my preconceived notions overshadowing my view, but there is a general sense of restraint here. Perhaps my already liberal tendencies were overly stimulated in my previous destinations. Everything is toned down a bit; from clothing, to food, to the hustle and bustle on the street - even the Chinese spoken here seems more controlled.

I did a hop-on / hop-off city tour on day one expecting to discover the various corners of the city to return to later. It was series of non-descript buildings and monuments. Each stop included a rundown of the nearby hotels and shopping malls. Very little historical or cultural information was included.

One of the city's top attractions is the Flyer; a large ferris wheel at the waterfront. Although it was interesting, unfortunately it pales in comparison to the London Eye or the Yokohama wheel. Chinatown and Little India were also a bit on the small scale. It was if someone decreed that these blocks would be ethnic areas and the local shop keepers complied. Toronto's cultural areas outshine Singapore's any day.

Singapore's other famous district is Orchard Road - the shopping mecca of Asia. The road is lined with shopping malls. There are dozens of them. In this regard, Singapore was impressive. And for someone who has been living in the same set of clothes for months, the western brands and sizes were a welcome treat. I managed to pick up a pair of shorts and some capris. Yeah!!

One unexpected pleasure came in the form of a food court. In one of the many malls, there is an area called 'Food Republic'. It is a typical food court, except ALL the food is Asian - I am in heaven. There is Japanese, Chinese - multiple styles, Thai, Korean, Indonesian, and Indian. The only piece missing is Lao. The food is good and cheap - the perfect combo for a tight Singapore budget.

To fill my second day (my flight doesn't leave until 2am Saturday morning), I stopped by the Art Museum of Singapore where there is an interesting exhibit on Christian Lacriox costumes for the theatre, ballet and opera. It was quite fun to see these pieces of unique craftsmanship up close. The museum itself is also a lovely building with interest french architecture.

The weather turned wet. This gave the city a very slight break from the humidity. But in the end, I retreated back inside the air conditioned comfort of the shopping malls ... and caught a movie.

By the way, the Knowing with Nicholas Cage can be missed - wait for it on VOD.

PS: Now at Singapore Changi Airport, and the place is full of perks. Free Internet, free movie network movies, reasonable prices (for an airport), and friendly staff (the restaurant allowed me to be seated even thought they had closed 20 mins earlier). So now I am feeling a bit guilty about my posting. Clearly there are some areas of the city that are well suited for travellers - just stay in the airport and you'll love it!!

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Love: Siam style

One of the long known aspects of Thai tourism is the sex trade. It covers all the gambits of interests, and unfortunately cross legal lines all too often. In fact, earlier in my trip three Australian men were arrested in Pattaya for child pornography and having sex with minors. I have serious issues with anyone who takes advantage of children. Unfortunately, Thailand has become a breeding ground for this kind of sicko. Other forms of sex tourism are legal and quite publically promoted. In Phuket, you couldn't walk down the street without being offered access to the closest ping pong show or lady boy showcase. In fact, one of the most popular shows is Simon's; an all lady boy extravaganza. In Chiang Mai, I came across the highest numbers of the most common situation; older western man hooked up with young Thai woman. I am talking about guys in their mid-40's up to 60's with women in their 20's. As I understand the concept, men arrive
for their holidays and the first stop is a local 'farong' bar (farong = foreigner) which generally has a 3 to 1 ratio of Thai women to western men. They get the drinks flowing and the girls flock around. The women are looking for a sugar daddy, someone who has the potential to take the back to their home country or set them up in their own love nest in Thailand. The women are most interested in knowing what the man does for a living and what resources he has available. Looks, age and other commitments are not important at all. These relationships can last for as little as a night or can go on for years. The women doat on the fella, hanging from their arms like the latest status accessory. But they carefully extract all they need as well. A trip home to meet the family soon follows so he can see where she comes from, how supportive the family is, and most importantly, how hard their lives are. A few dollars would sure make life a little easier.
And did father mention that his motorcycle needs new brakes, and my younger brother needs books for school. Now, I have no issue with this set up. The guy is happy, he has a hot chick on his arm. His ego (and other parts) are higher than they've been in years. She is getting wined and dined and her family maybe getting a few perks in the process. In speaking to a guy in Chiang Mai who is engaged in one of these relationships, one thing struck me as funny. He had been with his lady for 3 months (he is here on long term assignment with his company). He is divorced. I would guess in his early 50's. He has two sons; one in college and one working in technology. He says they have talked about marriage and the possibility of her going back to the UK with him. Here is the funny part. In Thailand, she is deadly jealous. He says they rarely go out anymore, she won't let him out of her sight. She knows that a quick trip to the nearest farong bar and
she can be replaced. However, he is not keen on bringing her back to the UK for the very same reason; far too much competition. He also has not mention his relationship to his sons. He thinks they might disapprove. He expecting to be heading home within the next two months, and hasn't a clue what to do. By the way, I got all of this information poured on me by him, while his lady was sitting right next to him. She barely speaks any English, but has the nodding and smiling down pat. The entire time we were chatting she had her arms entwined around his torso and nuzzled his arm. He hardly seemed to notice. As I got up to leave, he wished me a safe trip and told me to enjoy the rest of my time in Thailand. I wished him luck and walked off wondering what the outcome would be. Given the fact that he revealed all of this to a total stranger in a span of 30 minutes, I would guess he is leaning towards returning home solo. Perhaps with an annual holiday
back to Chiang Mai.
There are all kinds of relationships that draw people together. As long as everyone involved are doing so by their own free will, and with mutual respect, then who am I to judge. Good luck Edwin!

Elephants, tigers and ... orchids (?)

I am now in Chiang Mai in the Northern part of Thailand. I have traded in the beaches and diving for mountains and temples.

Today I went on a local elephant safari. There are a couple outfits around the city where you can see an elephant show, go for ride on one of the lovable creatures, ride in an ox cart and also take a bamboo raft down a slow river.

It was certainly well worth the price of admission. I was a bit nervous that I would be confronted by animals that might not be treat well, but it looked like everyone (human and pacaderm alike) were all living harmoniously.

The day kicked off with the pick up of all the participants. There were 11 of us in total. There were two couples from Denmark, one couple from England, one couple from Dubia, and a newly married couple half English and half Thai. No points for guessing which was the bride. I am always the gooseberry in the group. However, being on my own generally makes me a target for those couples looking for someone to chat with. Traveling solo for a year still seems to be a quite a novelty for many. It is surprising how many people want to know just much money I have or if someone else (Daddy) might be footing the bill. They are not generally satisfied to hear that I saved up for years to do something like this.

When we arrived at the elephant camp, we were treated to a show. Elephants played soccer, walked on two legs, lifted their riders by their trunks and even painted. Now, I had heard of painting elephants before, by I assumed that meant abstract splotches of colour randomly splattered on a canvas. These elephants actually painted things. The closest to me painted an elephant! I am not sure I could do that. It was amazing to see it develop on the canvas. He hit the same spot over and over again to bring shadow to the legs and even drew a flower in its trunk. Amazing!!


Elephant artist at work

After the show was over there was a chance to get on one of these incredible animals. Several of them surrounded me and at one point all I could see was elephant. It was a bit overwhelming. I was overcome by a sense of being watched and when I turned around there was a particularly large female staring me down. They have an incredible gentle quality to them. Their eyes are soft and introspective. But yet the are tons of muscle, tusks, and determination. You do not want to get on the wrong side of these beauties.

We were ready for our ride next. My elephant was called Maeko, and was 14 years old. I hope this teenage stays on the path and doesn't get any funny ideas about rolling in the river. I was on my own, which actually made things a bit harder. I slid around the seat quite a bit and at times had to grip on with everything I had. There were several food pitstops along the way. For 30Baht you could give your elephant a snack of bananas and sugar cane. Mine was quite determined to stop at each and every one.

We were off loaded into a souvenir strip - they don't miss an opportunity to offer up all kinds of tat. Actually, I picked up a sweet little bag for less than two dollars.

We returned to the main part of the camp via ox cart. Not as elegant as the elephant by still quite efficient. Then it was onto a buffet lunch, which turned out to be quite nice. I was partnered up with the Dubia couple for lunch. They drilled me with questions about Canadian universities since they are quite certain they will end up there when their children reach university age. The husband works for Siemens / Nokia and was quite impressed when I told him had worked for Rogers. Apparently, Rogers is well regarded by his regional team.

We departed the elephant camp by bamboo raft. I am telling you, this tour was like a transportation schmorgesborg. The raft was handled by two pole wielding men. One of whom, we knicknamed him Mario Andrette, was determined to get down the river as fast as possible. We were overtaking other rafters left and right. He took a quite a bit of glee in pushing past a group of kids who were screaming "faster, faster" to their rafters.

On the way back into town we stopped at a tiger farm. Several people from the group paid to have their picture taken with various cats. I opted to view from the safer sidelines. They really did look like big cats, but when they yawned you could see they had enormous teeth.
Looks harmless from here

The final stop was an orchid farm. Nice but not that impressive. However the free bloom I received on the way did sit nicely in my hair when I went out for dinner later on.

Overall, it was a great day. I was communing with Mother Nature and her animals. Plus I got another great view into the worlds of other travelers.

The final Thai bubbles

Jerry and I opted for one last set of dives in Phuket near Koh Phi Phi island (made famous by the movie The Beach).

We did two dives and although it was lovely and we were treated to two Leopard sharks it was much the same as before. I realize that if it is becoming common place then it is time to give it a rest.

Plus, so much of the overall experience comes down to the crew, divemasters, and other divers. This time out was the first time I was a bit disappointed in that regard. Our divemaster was a 45 year old American who had only been diving himself for less than a year. He had a bit of a self-proclaimed mid-life crisis and decided to pitch in his regular life in Seattle and come to Thailand. He has found his Thai girlfriend and is wondering why he ever life get so stressful. I am cool with that, but I have been spoiled by my previous instructors and divemasters. They all recognize that this is a service business and even though the clients are own vacation, they still deserve what they paid for. Let's just say that Dave still has one foot in his own personal discovery and hasn't made a full commitment to a new life.

Furthermore, the whole group on board is very segmented. The one diver we are all drawn to is a 8 year old Japanese boy getting his Open Water certification. His parents are obviously big into the sport, and their son seems to be picking it up fast. It was kinda fun having a conversation with him in Japanese about all the fist he saw.

A final note about diving in Thailand has to do with the lack of hooks in this country. Thailand is a developing country, and as such, it still has some simply amenities. Generally most bathrooms are a combination of a shower room, toilet and handbasin. On a dive boat this is always the case, which makes changing into and out of your swimsuit a constant struggle to keep things dry. The floor is wet. The toilet seat is wet. The handbasin is wet. So you need to develop new balancing acts just to keep from having soggy knickers. I have come dangerously close to doing a header into the wall a few times. Good thing I developed my sea legs early in life. Every time I go through this dance, I feel like screaming "For the love of a hook" (my original title for this post).