Hue way

After a long night train ride, we arrived. in Hue. It is situated along the coast, in central Vietnam. It is very close to what was the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), making Hue one of the areas heavily impacted by fighting due the Vietnam war (or the American War as the Vietnamese call it). Hue was the capital city until the end of Imperialism. When Ho Chi Minh declared communism he came to Hue to take control of the country from the last Emperor and then moved the capital to Hanoi.

We were greeted at the doors of our hotel by ladies with roses, cool refreshing hand towels and glasses of juice. All very civilized. I wonder if I can get my neighbours to take up that custom when I return home?

The afternoon was spent visiting the areas most famous pagoda, then a lovely ride down the Perfume River back to the city centre. We had a freshen up and then off to dinner at a restaurant still using recipes and cooking methods used for the emperors. We were treated a wonderful musical performance with local singers and traditional instruments. Each instrument is only capable of playing 5 notes, but it was very melodic. The two ladies were also playing cups. They places two small teacups in each hand and tinged them together. If any of us tried that we'd have broken the cups within two minutes.

The following day we had a morning trip to the Citadel (a walled city - I just learned that term on this trip). It is in fact three walled areas within each other. The innermost was the Forbidden City for the Imperial family, the next one out was for the Mandarins and Military leaders and finally the outpost area was for the regular folks. A lot of the areas were destroyed during the various wars

In the afternoon I found myself off to an Internet cafe to upload photos and catch up on mail. Read my separate entry for that experience.

The following day we were off to Hoi An by bus. Each place has had a similar flavour, but yet very distinctive qualities. To quote the famous Southeast Asian expression; Same, same but different.

Constitutional reports

Being on a tour has great advantages. You have all your hotels and transportation organized for you. You have a tour leader that can offer insights into local customs and direct you to the best spots around town. And, of course you get to know new people who have very similar interests to you in a short amount of time.



When the tour starts everyone gives their basic information; names, home towns, professions, number of children, etc. It is all polite surface level stuff.



Within a few days, the conversations develop into more opinion based discussions. It is hotel better or worse than the previous night or do you believe that certain world leaders are dealing with issues appropriately.



The next stage can emerge at different times depending on the part of the world you are in. This stage is started when the first person in the group falls ill. Then suddenly it is open season for everyone to inquire about your general well being, but with an emphasis on your bowels and stomach.



Every morning, at meal times and upon returning from daily tours there is a round of checks where everyone gives their physical update. Generally you get the all clear, weary but optimistic, wobbly and uncertain, or the going down fast reports.



The fascination with others health generally bounds a group. Once you have talked about poop other topics don't seem so taboo.

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Ha Long Bay Haven

Vietnamese mythology describes Ha Long Bay as the place where the dragons enter the sea. It is believed that when they ran down from the land they bashed apart the mountains with their tails creating enormous boulders that fell into the sea which are now the over 1000 islands with the Ha Long Bay area. When you see the scattered pattern of rounded tops mounds throughout the large bay, it is easy to imagine frolicking dragons.

We had a lovely 5 hour cruise around the islands in the morning. There was a stop at a cave that included enormous chambers. Hundreds of years ago, those caves would flood with sea water. This resulted in ceiling designs that look like sandy beaches - rubbed smooth with large pox marks. There were also many stalactites and stalacmites that can appear as interesting creatures if you use your imagination (or squint just right).

The highlight of the day was of course the surrounding vista. It is such a serene location. The misty sky fades gently into the island tops. It is like a living watercolor painting. You can't help but recognize the majestic simplicity of the area. Which makes me remember that in the grand scheme of things like is really simple. When I get home I will recall these quiet islands when I need to collect my thoughts in the seemingly chaotic world.

Ha Long Bay was designated a World Heritage site in the mid 80's.

Photos to follow soon.
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Big City Highlights

Feb 24

For this posting I am sitting on a small island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, which sits in the middle of Hanoi city, Vietnam. It is a peaceful haven surrounded by a loud and vibrant city. My kind of place.

Vietnam has been so different from Laos so far, but a lot of fun just the same. To be fair, I am comparing Hanoi, a capital city with 5M people to sleepy towns and tiny cities of Laos.

Upon arriving in Hanoi, we were given some important tips to keep in mind.

1. When crossing the road, don't wait for a break in the traffic, there will never be one. Walk with determination at a steady pace and whatever you do, don't turn back. There are over 3M motorcycles in Hanoi, and you'd swear there are all baring down on you when you are seemingly trapped halfway across the road, but they all know how to zig and zag to avoid you, the other bikes, the cars, buses, and rickshaws (known as Cyclos). It is like a chaotic ballet. I was actually quite enjoying my strolls across the roads by the end of the day.

2. Don't eat the street food. Only those people very local eat anything out of a basket or from a street vendor. Even those people from other parts of Vietnam don't have the constitution to manage things from unfamiliar parts. This idea was not a hard one for me to manage. I like local cuisine, but I am too fearful of getting really sick to risk too much. But in case I needed some extra encouragement, one of the first vendors I saw had pop and beer cans stuffed with whole young chickens. Only the bums and feet stuck out the top. I guess that is their version of Beer Can Chicken!

3. "Cum on" means "Thank you". And the locals giggle when you say it. I checked my pronunciation with our guide and he said it was fine. He said the locals realize what it means in English, so they think its funny when foreigners say it. The Vietnamese language has a lot of intonation elements so the same words can mean "hello" or "may I have a bowl of noodle soup".

We are heading to the World Heritage Site of Ha Long Bay this afternoon. I am really looking forward to the cruise we have plan there. I am a sucker for anything to do with boats and the water.

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Misty Mountains and the Mekong

My tour through Laos has been a spectacle of mountains and rivers. The landscape through the northern part of Laos is rounded mountains tops and rivers cutting their way through the rough terrain. This picturesque country also has some of the most delightful people. Although tourism has definitely taken hold, the Lao people are taking it in stride. They are not pushy or abrasive, even the Tuk Tuk drivers are very laid back.

On the way from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, my camera took a fatal bounce on the payment, so I was forced to simply admire the view instead of wondering if I had a good angle for my good for a shot. I think some how I was being taught a lesson in appreciating what was in front of me at the moment. Living in the moment is something I am really hoping to embrace this year.

In Luang Prabang our group was treated to a variety of temples, palaces and caves. I fear I have already had my fill of Buddhas. For me the two highlights were the boat trip up the Mekong River to some caves and the hike to the waterfalls where we were able to swim in the pools of cool mountain run off. No surprise that the two special points involved water. The rivers serve has major expressways for Laos, bringing goods into the country from China, Thailand and Vietnam, so being apart of that was really like being apart of this country's lifestyle.

Luang Prabang is also a hub in the north for crafts people to bring their wears into the city for sale. The is a "Night Market" everyday on the main street where you can buy all kinds of local crafts. Some of it looks authentic while some looks imported from China or Thailand. Nevertheless, I have picked up a shawl (lightweight for those days I go into the temples) and a small gift for my mother.

Today I am leaving Laos and heading for Vietnam. So on my last afternoon, I am sitting on a patio on main street, eating another bowl of Lao noodle soup and sipping on a Beerlao contemplating a way of life so different from my own. I am not likely to pack in my life in Canada and move to Laos, but there are aspect of this peaceful life that give me ideas of how to better enjoy what I have and forget those things that don't go the way you plan.

By the way, I picked up another camera in Luang Prabang so the photos will keep coming.
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From Vientiane to Vang Vieng

I am now on my way to Vang Vieng, leaving Vientiane behind. The capital was a lovely, albeit sleepy big city. There were plenty of monuments, temples and the Grand Stupor, which is the most prestigious monument in all of Laos. It contains the breast bone of Buddha. Every New Year there is a candle light procession around the stupor.

Given my intense need to be near water, being in a landlocked country always makes me a slightly uncomfortable. So it will come as no surprise that the most enjoyable place for me was sitting on the cushions of the river bank open air cafes with a cold BeerLao. I am very predictable.

The temples were also fascinating. There are many forms of Buddha to support anything you may need help with. Manish, you will be please that I made an offering to the Buddha of friendship health. I am doing what I can even from the middle of Asia.

My other luxury was to have an hour long foot massage last night. Wow - that was good. The man who took care of me had fingers and arms of iron. He could apply just the right amount of pressure so that you could feel it all the way up you leg. There were some sore spots, but it certainly felt good when it was all over. The grand total for an hour of massage was 43,000 Lao kip, equal to $5 US. I am going to have to talk to Tony (my massage therapist in Toronto) when I get home.

The tour group I am with is quite nice. I am one of twelve. All the rest are from England or Scotland. I am by far the youngest, but everyone seems lovely so far.

On the road to Vang Vieng I have seen several interesting sights that seem to typify life in Laos;

There were the two guys lounge on raised deck with laptops and printers. Laos has very good technology connections and most people seem very competent with Internet and software work. But they approach it all with a laid back feel that I would love to take with me back to Rogers.

Then there is the school ground we passed with rows and rows of neatly parked bicycles and motorbikes. Most transportation is done on two wheels. The surprising thing to me was how many women also drive motorbikes and just how many people wear helmets. You rarely see just one person on a bike or any sort. Communal driving seems to be most popular. In fact we also saw the tractor that doubles as a school bus every morning. There must have been about 15 kids on the back. The western world could learn a thing or two about car pooling from the Lao.

The billboards on the side of the road show only Asian people. This is a pleasant change from Japan or Hong Kong where you see lots on North American celebrities and various white smiling face are touting the benefits of energy drinks or shampoo. Even when I lived in Asia I was always amazed at how American actors like George Clooney, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Charlie Sheen could peddle cars, cigarettes and air conditioners in Asia without damaging their careers.

Finally the smoke seems to be lifting. All throughout Vientiane there was a smoky haze. Our leader told us it was the farmers in the surrounding areas burning off there farmer lands to get the soil ready for the next round of crops.

More notes from Laos to come...

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Latest Photos from the Road

Please check out my recent photo albums from Japan, Hong Kong and Laos.

And if anyone can tell me if there is a Blogger module that can read these in automatically, please pass on the secret. I have just can't seem to make it work.