This tours includes several long distance bus trips, but only one overnight bus. I have done overnight buses before. They are not great, but always manageable. This one was scheduled to be 14 hours. This Tucuman place we are heading to, better be worth being bent into the shape of a bus seat for more than half a day. Deep breath, there is something to be taken from this challenge.
The pimped out bus from Santiago wasn't so bad, so this should be fine.....
The seats were not as wide or plump, and there was a definite air of 'we gave up' a long time ago.
As we get settled in and the bus pulls out of town, the hostess comes on the speaker system to run down the rules. Fredy translated the basics; don't walk around the bus while it is in motion, please use your seatbelt, and only go #1 in the toilet. What? How does that work? I'm not sure about you, but I can't necessarily shut off my bowels like a flick of a switch. Certainly not for 14 freaking hours.
We have been told that they offer a small chicken meal onboard, but most of us opted to grab a Subway sub, just in case. The hostess put on a movie and began preparing for dinner service. We all got a plastic tray and cup. Then she disappeared downstairs. What she came back with, was an atrocity to mankind. The sticker called it chicken roll. Minced chicken squished around bits of coloured chunks, presumably they were vegetables at some point. The other offerings on the platter were all forms of white square bread-like things. The tray was looking more appetizing than the food itself. I could only bring myself to try the dessert looking item that appeared to have some form of dolce de letche on it. Mistake, and now those bathroom rules were seeming even more impossible.
I scarfed down my sub and a sleep pilling and prayed this night would slide by quickly. I was lucky to sleep the majority of the way.
In the morning, around 7:30 the bus started to make some very strained noises. Perhaps, someone hadn't obeyed the rules. We chugged along for a bit, but it was obvious that we were slowing down. Finally we pulled over on the side of the highway and the driver and hostess disappeared. They wouldn't let us off the bus to stretch our legs or make a break for it, not a good sign. The drama was thankfully short lived. We were back on the road within 20 minutes, but we were not operating at top speed.
To take our minds off the death trap ride we were on, the hostess announced were were going to play a game... Bingo. I swear, I'm not kidding.
She handed out cards, which most people didn't take. And away she went, pulling tiny balls out of a plastic bag, calling numbers. At first she was quite enthusiastic, she rolled her r's and emphasize the numbers. But she soon realized that those playing were only humouring her and she picked up the pace. Pretty soon she was firing off numbers like a machine gun; and no one was calling Bingo. For the love of all things decent, someone put her out of her misery. Finally Bingo was called and a prize bottle of wine was awarded.
Eventually, 15 hours after we left Mendoza, we pulled into Tucuman bus station. I have never been so grateful to get off a bus before.
I don't think I will be standing fully upright until Tony, my massage therapist, gets his hands on me when I get back home.
God help me tomorrow when I have to do another one of the treks on the side of a mountain.
Saturday, November 14, 2015
Friday, November 13, 2015
Malbec mission
Argentina is well known for its Malbec wines. I'm well known for my love of Malbecs. I feel like I have come to my version of mecca. Mendoza province produces 80% of all of Argentina's wine. Hallelujah!
Today we were supposed to have a cycling tour of a couple of wineries in Mendoza, but it was pouring rain and was a chilly 12 degrees when I got up.
Thankfully our local tour guide and Fredy were able to flip the schedule and we did just a regular wine tasting tour. Phew, wine crisis averted.
We drove out to the first winery. A cute small family run vineyard where one of the daughters of the owners, Veronica, explained that all of the wines we developed to represent the various family. The most common varietals are Malbec, Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, Syrah and Savignon Blanc. Veronica described her siblings, parents and children as wine types. Mama is very fortified and is the grappa made as a pressed wine. Always under pressure to allow the rest of the family to shine. Veronica was Malbec, well balanced, smooth and reliable. Her brother was Cabernet Savignon, harsher and best if blended with her sister, Merlot who is more of a free spirit. The father is the bottle keeping every contained and organized. It was a sweet way to understand the different grapes and ways of blending. I had to pick up one of their Malbecs to remind me of Veronica's passion for her family business.
Next we went to Trapiche, which is a very large winery that exports all over the world. I have enjoyed their wines many times. They are the behemoth in the region. They had a slick tour, but no where as touching as Veronica's description of her Merlot style husband. Trapiche
did offer some very health pours, so they were redeeming in that regard.
Next we stopped in at a local olive oil production farm. The smell was intoxicating. The olives are still very young on the trees, but the flower buds were starting to pop. It was a combination of lemon and olives. We learner about the pressing g process and then did a tasting which highlighted the different qualities. No surprise, I preferred the spicier versions. The body oils were also nice.
The peak of the day came next with a stop at a local restaurant with the most incredible chacuteruie spread I have ever seen. Eight kinds of meats, six cheeses, but then endless extra vegetables and spreads. This was a religious food experience.
We made it back to the hotel for a much need siesta. I'm starting to acclimatize to this South America lifestyle.
Thursday, November 12, 2015
Wine tours day 2
Today we took to the bikes to make our way around three wineries. It is super sunny, a great day for a leisurely peddle in wine country.
The tour company had harassed me for my height to ensure the bikes were properly fitted to our size. So when we arrived at the bike place I kind of expected a bit of organization. Instead the was a line up of bike and it was a free for all to get one that fit. Seats getting moved up and down. I pick one with a basket - Mary Poppin's style. Then as we were getting ready to leave there was some ruckus about helmets. Apparently those were not booked. The bike shop owner finally pulled out several helmets, all of which had seen better days. Safety first!
We set off down the street. I was pumping hard, but not getting very far. I was searching for a gear shifter while trying not to swerve into traffic and watching my travel mates pull further ahead of me. Ugh, it sucks getting old. No gears. Who rides a single gear bike anymore? Then I noticed my knees seemed closer to my chest. Not the optimal biking position, slip, there it goes again. Crap, my seat adjustment was obviously not tightened enough. I have now slid down completely to the cross bar. The rest of the group is quickly fading away ahead of me. The van, thankfully is behind me. I pull over in hopes of a seat fix, but instead the driver waves me into the van and tosses my bike in. So much for that experience. By the time we catch up to the group, they are entering the first winery.
Like yesterday, the first winery is a small family run business. This is one of the only organic wineries in the area. They even have a few hectors of biodynamic, which involves very specific management of the vines including only trimming or removing the grapes under certain lunar cycles.
The wines were delicious, but I am trying to keep my purchases under control. I don't need to clink my way past customs when I get home.
No more biking for me. Apparently, there is nothing to be done but ride in the van. Oh well, I tried.
On the way to the second stop, the driver must of felt sorry for me, or he just forgot I was in the back. He started belting out Tom Jones, 'Sex Bomb' along with the radio. How can you be disappointed with that, Sex Bomb, Sex Bomb! 😘🎶
The second winery was good, delicious wines, but it was a big industrial one. They are all blending together.
When we arrived at number three, lunch was being severed. Thank goodness, I think we all need something to sop up the booze. It was a fantastic lunch of empanadas, stewed chicken and strawberry flan. Of course accompanied with wine pairings.
The tour and tasting after that was all a bit of a blur. But we did come by some adorable puppies. Who doesn't like a cuddly puppy.
Tuesday, November 10, 2015
Santiago to Mendoza
Today we make the ride over the mountains into Mendoza, also known a Malbec Mecca!
The journey is expected be about 8 hours depending on the border crossing. Get ready to be turned into a pretzel sitting on a bus for that long.
Wait... this ride is cometely pimped out. The bus has lounge chairs that rival the most comfy Lazy boy. Nice and puffy, leg rest, almost full recline. This is bus livin'.
After we leave the Santiago city limits, we are quickly heading up into the ragged slopes of the Andes. Snow capped peaks, winding switchbacks, breath taking views of burnt out wreckage of identical buses and eighteen wheelers. Yikes, these slopes are steep.
We get to the border crossing around noon, there a several buses ahead of us. We are told to stretch our legs for about 15 mins while the other buses pass through the check point. This suggests that the crossing is pretty standard and not too complicated. Oh, my was I wrong. We get out to walk around a bit. Holy mole, is it cold. I guess I didn't translate the snow capped view into a minus temperature with a wind chill factor. Brisk! We get back on the bus only to drive 50 feet into the border crossing building, and get out of the bus again. This is where it turns into a Disneyland ride queue, without Mickey to entertain us. Every time you think you have made it to the actual entrance, you turn the corner to find another queue. We are lined up according to our seat number in one line to go through the 'exit Chile' booth. As we shuffle through that piece, we are then lined up to another booth, which allows us to enter Argentina. All this time, standing in a wind tunnel of mountain fresh air. One of my tour mates begins to self diagnose himself with altitude sickness. He is checking his heart rate and pulse. After the paperwork, we are back on the bus to drive another 50 feet to baggage control. Off the bus again. This time with all belongings and the luggage is coming off for x ray. We are directed to open our hand luggage so they can take a look. It was very cursory, but my clementines sadly didn't make the cut. Our other bags make it through x ray, and we board the bus again; only two hours gone!
A few more hours switch backing down the mountains and we arrive in Mendoza. Our tour guide recommends we use a parallel market to exchange money into Argentinian pesos. This means you walk around the main streets looking for a big dude who is offering "change" . We give it a try, and make some of the best financial exchanges any of us have ever had. Whoo hoo for the parallel market. We have a nice meal and head back to a nice hotel where I get a king size bed. I am the only solo female, so get to have a room to myself. Sweet.
Tomorrow we start our exploration of the wine country. I'm a happy chappie!
The journey is expected be about 8 hours depending on the border crossing. Get ready to be turned into a pretzel sitting on a bus for that long.
Wait... this ride is cometely pimped out. The bus has lounge chairs that rival the most comfy Lazy boy. Nice and puffy, leg rest, almost full recline. This is bus livin'.
After we leave the Santiago city limits, we are quickly heading up into the ragged slopes of the Andes. Snow capped peaks, winding switchbacks, breath taking views of burnt out wreckage of identical buses and eighteen wheelers. Yikes, these slopes are steep.
We get to the border crossing around noon, there a several buses ahead of us. We are told to stretch our legs for about 15 mins while the other buses pass through the check point. This suggests that the crossing is pretty standard and not too complicated. Oh, my was I wrong. We get out to walk around a bit. Holy mole, is it cold. I guess I didn't translate the snow capped view into a minus temperature with a wind chill factor. Brisk! We get back on the bus only to drive 50 feet into the border crossing building, and get out of the bus again. This is where it turns into a Disneyland ride queue, without Mickey to entertain us. Every time you think you have made it to the actual entrance, you turn the corner to find another queue. We are lined up according to our seat number in one line to go through the 'exit Chile' booth. As we shuffle through that piece, we are then lined up to another booth, which allows us to enter Argentina. All this time, standing in a wind tunnel of mountain fresh air. One of my tour mates begins to self diagnose himself with altitude sickness. He is checking his heart rate and pulse. After the paperwork, we are back on the bus to drive another 50 feet to baggage control. Off the bus again. This time with all belongings and the luggage is coming off for x ray. We are directed to open our hand luggage so they can take a look. It was very cursory, but my clementines sadly didn't make the cut. Our other bags make it through x ray, and we board the bus again; only two hours gone!
A few more hours switch backing down the mountains and we arrive in Mendoza. Our tour guide recommends we use a parallel market to exchange money into Argentinian pesos. This means you walk around the main streets looking for a big dude who is offering "change" . We give it a try, and make some of the best financial exchanges any of us have ever had. Whoo hoo for the parallel market. We have a nice meal and head back to a nice hotel where I get a king size bed. I am the only solo female, so get to have a room to myself. Sweet.
Tomorrow we start our exploration of the wine country. I'm a happy chappie!
Monday, November 9, 2015
Santiago Day 3: Andes smandes...
Being on an "active" tour means you have to move your butt. I kinda forgot to tell my butt that, or any other part of my body for that matter. We left the hotel at 8:30 for a day of "walking" in the foothills of the Andes. Or so I was led to believe by Fredy.
We arrived at a parking lot full of cars with people unpacking picnic baskets and walking sticks. How bad could this be...
Gorgeous day, a little cloudy which helps keep it cool. We met our trekking guide, Felix. Nice enough guy, but did he just call himself a TREKKING guide? Spidey senses starting to tingle. We are told that the first 20 mins will be the hardest part of the easiest part. What does that mean? For those of you who know me, you know I am more at home in the water than on the side of a mountain. So, you know this does not bode well. Off we start, my tour mates, who are all at least 10 years younger than I, are chatting about how this is good prep work for their next marathons. Oh shit!
I make it a respectable 50 metres (seemingly straight up) before I am drenched in sweat (so much for that sunscreen) and sucking for air. Not a problem, I have nothing to contribute to the marathon discussions anyway. Fredy is mercifully staying behind me. I guess it's easier to find the body when you see it plunge over the edge.
Other tour groups are now passing us. My group finally stops for a water break. Are we there yet?
We continue on with several picturesque stops, but I spend the whole time staring at my feet trying not to slip. After about 75 mins we get to a lovely spot that Felix generously calls 'about half way'. Barely in kilometres, but no where near halfway in terms of effort. I haven't passed out yet - victory
There is a small waterfall, a stand of welcoming shady trees and some comfy looking boulders. This is where you need to decide your next steps carefully. Continue up, which apparently is harder than the first bit and at least 2.5 hours for those who can run a marathon. I choose to enjoy myself rather than make a group of complete strangers carry my body off the mountain. I wave them off and sit my ass down. I watch other hikers come and go; imaging what brought them here today. I have to say, the majority of them were doing the same as me; resting up and heading back down. Felix had recommended an alternate path down, so I got a more rounded view. Anything other than staring at my shoes willing my feet to keep moving was going to be fabulous. Before I headed down, I took time to meditate on my incredible good fortune. Here I am in a gorgeous part of the world with only myself to please. Gratefulness doesn't seem enough.
I decided to take my time and savour every step and moment. Be in the presence of this incredible natural wonder around me. It has been a long time since I have been out in nature by myself. I was rewarded within the first couple of minutes with a fantastic swinging bridge. All to myself. As I kept going I felt completely at easy surrounded by flowers, birds, and the occasionally gecko-like creature. Everyone who passed by had a friendly "Ola". Some questioned my solo travelling style. Or so my limited Spanish leads me to believe.
I found a great lookout spot to stop for lunch. A ham and cheese sandwich never tasted so good with such a majestic view.
As the parking lot below came into sight, I became aware of an incredible humming sound all around me. I was standing in a huge field of full bloom clover. It was alive with bees. Apparently honey is a big industry here. I was amazing to be in a sea of flowers and busy bees. Honey, yum. Crap, hungry again.
I finally emerged at the starting point. It might not have been the "walk" that g adventures advertised, but it was the best 5 hours I've had in a long time.
I decided I deserved a well earned treat. Café con letche and slice of apple and current pie. Perfecto!
The rest of the group arrived a couple of hours later completely wiped out. They had fun, but I know I had the best this place had to offer me. Gracias Parque Aguas de Ramon.
Tomorrow is an eight hour bus ride from Santiago across the border to Mendoza, Argentina. Hopefully that will be an uneventful ride into the land of wine.
We arrived at a parking lot full of cars with people unpacking picnic baskets and walking sticks. How bad could this be...
Gorgeous day, a little cloudy which helps keep it cool. We met our trekking guide, Felix. Nice enough guy, but did he just call himself a TREKKING guide? Spidey senses starting to tingle. We are told that the first 20 mins will be the hardest part of the easiest part. What does that mean? For those of you who know me, you know I am more at home in the water than on the side of a mountain. So, you know this does not bode well. Off we start, my tour mates, who are all at least 10 years younger than I, are chatting about how this is good prep work for their next marathons. Oh shit!
I make it a respectable 50 metres (seemingly straight up) before I am drenched in sweat (so much for that sunscreen) and sucking for air. Not a problem, I have nothing to contribute to the marathon discussions anyway. Fredy is mercifully staying behind me. I guess it's easier to find the body when you see it plunge over the edge.
Other tour groups are now passing us. My group finally stops for a water break. Are we there yet?
We continue on with several picturesque stops, but I spend the whole time staring at my feet trying not to slip. After about 75 mins we get to a lovely spot that Felix generously calls 'about half way'. Barely in kilometres, but no where near halfway in terms of effort. I haven't passed out yet - victory
There is a small waterfall, a stand of welcoming shady trees and some comfy looking boulders. This is where you need to decide your next steps carefully. Continue up, which apparently is harder than the first bit and at least 2.5 hours for those who can run a marathon. I choose to enjoy myself rather than make a group of complete strangers carry my body off the mountain. I wave them off and sit my ass down. I watch other hikers come and go; imaging what brought them here today. I have to say, the majority of them were doing the same as me; resting up and heading back down. Felix had recommended an alternate path down, so I got a more rounded view. Anything other than staring at my shoes willing my feet to keep moving was going to be fabulous. Before I headed down, I took time to meditate on my incredible good fortune. Here I am in a gorgeous part of the world with only myself to please. Gratefulness doesn't seem enough.
I decided to take my time and savour every step and moment. Be in the presence of this incredible natural wonder around me. It has been a long time since I have been out in nature by myself. I was rewarded within the first couple of minutes with a fantastic swinging bridge. All to myself. As I kept going I felt completely at easy surrounded by flowers, birds, and the occasionally gecko-like creature. Everyone who passed by had a friendly "Ola". Some questioned my solo travelling style. Or so my limited Spanish leads me to believe.
I found a great lookout spot to stop for lunch. A ham and cheese sandwich never tasted so good with such a majestic view.
As the parking lot below came into sight, I became aware of an incredible humming sound all around me. I was standing in a huge field of full bloom clover. It was alive with bees. Apparently honey is a big industry here. I was amazing to be in a sea of flowers and busy bees. Honey, yum. Crap, hungry again.
I finally emerged at the starting point. It might not have been the "walk" that g adventures advertised, but it was the best 5 hours I've had in a long time.
I decided I deserved a well earned treat. Café con letche and slice of apple and current pie. Perfecto!
The rest of the group arrived a couple of hours later completely wiped out. They had fun, but I know I had the best this place had to offer me. Gracias Parque Aguas de Ramon.
Tomorrow is an eight hour bus ride from Santiago across the border to Mendoza, Argentina. Hopefully that will be an uneventful ride into the land of wine.
Sunday, November 8, 2015
Pisco sours and earthquakes
At 4:30 this morning everything was very jiggly. The walls creaked and the bed shook. I was suddenly taken back to my days in Japan when I experienced earthquakes on a somewhat regular basis.I didn't hear any alarms or people panicked on the street, so I just rolled over and figured "Welcome to Chile".
The hop on / off tour did not disappoint. Got me around with just enough details to make me feel well informed. One thing I noticed was the unbelievable amount of street art there is in this city. Beautiful pieces in all kinds of places. I wish I had more time to explore and appreciate them.
I funiculared up the main hill in the national park to see the Santuario Inmaculada Concepción. I love a good funicular. From the top, it gives a fabulous view of the city which seams to stretch on through this huge valley. It was quite foggy, so no sights of the impressive Andes behind. I hiked down to enjoy some more of the views. I had a few followers. There are a lot of stray dogs in Santiago. They kept me on track all the way back to the city.
I had lunch in Barrio Bellavista. Great atmosphere and lots of good options. I was inaugurated with my first pisco sour. Yummers, this will be the first of many I'm sure.
My final tour stop was Mercado Central. Got love a good market. Lots of fish, meats and veggies. Making hungry again. I walk back to the hotel via Plaza des Armes. A stunning cathedral with full mass underway was a lovely respite from the heat.
Tonight I met the rest of the tour group. Good bunch by the looks of it. There are seven of us in total. All Canadian girls, save one guy from the US and one from the UK. Plus our Peruvian tour guide, Fredy.
The hop on / off tour did not disappoint. Got me around with just enough details to make me feel well informed. One thing I noticed was the unbelievable amount of street art there is in this city. Beautiful pieces in all kinds of places. I wish I had more time to explore and appreciate them.
I funiculared up the main hill in the national park to see the Santuario Inmaculada Concepción. I love a good funicular. From the top, it gives a fabulous view of the city which seams to stretch on through this huge valley. It was quite foggy, so no sights of the impressive Andes behind. I hiked down to enjoy some more of the views. I had a few followers. There are a lot of stray dogs in Santiago. They kept me on track all the way back to the city.
I had lunch in Barrio Bellavista. Great atmosphere and lots of good options. I was inaugurated with my first pisco sour. Yummers, this will be the first of many I'm sure.
My final tour stop was Mercado Central. Got love a good market. Lots of fish, meats and veggies. Making hungry again. I walk back to the hotel via Plaza des Armes. A stunning cathedral with full mass underway was a lovely respite from the heat.
Tonight I met the rest of the tour group. Good bunch by the looks of it. There are seven of us in total. All Canadian girls, save one guy from the US and one from the UK. Plus our Peruvian tour guide, Fredy.
Saturday, November 7, 2015
Santiago day 1
Arriving through the clouds to look out over the snow capped mountains. The jaggedness of the Andes is apparent even at 20,000 feet.
Went with my instincts and booked a hop on /off bus tour for tomorrow. Perfect way to feel out the top spots. Since I only have one day in the city I needed a fast way to see it all.
Got settled into my hotel room. One of the smallest I have ever been in, and I have travelled extensively. Let's call it cosy. Nice shower, quick regrouping of the essential and off I went to explore.
I barely had to go two blocks before I came across a city park, Santa Lucia Hill and Gardens, with all kinds of cool nooks and crannies. Although I have to think that perhaps all of Santiago is in heat, because most of the nooks were a rockn' with Chilean lovers. Sheeish! The mood is heightened by wafting honeysuckle. The whole place smells so sweet. Makes me hungry and since I only had a handful of m&ms for lunch, I'm getting a grumbly tummy. Oh, look... ice cream!
That tided me over to finish my stroll through the neighbouring streets. Then back to the hotel for a rest, my feet need to get used to all this work.
Sorry, to say my first real meal in Chile was Peruvian. But, damn it was good. Steak on a bed of creamy fettuccine, not a vegetable in sight. All washed down by a few yummy Peruvian beers. I will need to balance that out tomorrow. But for now, I'm heading back to the hotel with a warm belly for a good night's rest. Buenos nochas.
Went with my instincts and booked a hop on /off bus tour for tomorrow. Perfect way to feel out the top spots. Since I only have one day in the city I needed a fast way to see it all.
Got settled into my hotel room. One of the smallest I have ever been in, and I have travelled extensively. Let's call it cosy. Nice shower, quick regrouping of the essential and off I went to explore.
I barely had to go two blocks before I came across a city park, Santa Lucia Hill and Gardens, with all kinds of cool nooks and crannies. Although I have to think that perhaps all of Santiago is in heat, because most of the nooks were a rockn' with Chilean lovers. Sheeish! The mood is heightened by wafting honeysuckle. The whole place smells so sweet. Makes me hungry and since I only had a handful of m&ms for lunch, I'm getting a grumbly tummy. Oh, look... ice cream!
That tided me over to finish my stroll through the neighbouring streets. Then back to the hotel for a rest, my feet need to get used to all this work.
Sorry, to say my first real meal in Chile was Peruvian. But, damn it was good. Steak on a bed of creamy fettuccine, not a vegetable in sight. All washed down by a few yummy Peruvian beers. I will need to balance that out tomorrow. But for now, I'm heading back to the hotel with a warm belly for a good night's rest. Buenos nochas.
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